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Other Climbing Areas
Jump to new posts Re: Needles, South Dakota beta? by Elwood54 @ Yesterday at 05:52 PM

Yup, I have the new guidebook - it\'s great. Unfortunately, it doesn\'t cover Custer State Park. I guess we\'d be looking for climbs in the 8-10 range, depending on softness vs. sand bagging.
Gunks Routes
Jump to new posts Re: long finger-tip crack across from Pebbles slab? by slevin @ Yesterday at 01:02 PM

I just looked in the bouldering guide, it has been bouldered indeed. It\'s called Habanero Balls and is rated V5 (consistent with a mid-5.12, I guess). Pretty high-ball for a boulder problem, IMHO, which also makes me wounder if it has gone as a lead
Other Climbing Areas
Jump to new posts Re: Needles, South Dakota beta? by rg@ofmc @ Yesterday at 04:38 AM

I know lots about Custer State Park; climbed quite bit BITD. The rock takes some getting used to; crystals in granite, usually but not always solid. It is pretty hard to compare to the Gunks. Some routes are run-out, but there is plenty to do that
Gunks Routes
Jump to new posts Re: long finger-tip crack across from Pebbles slab? by rg@ofmc @ Yesterday at 04:32 AM

I was under the impression it had been bouldered, but I\'m not sure why I think that...
Gunks Routes
Jump to new posts long finger-tip crack across from Pebbles slab? by slevin @ 09/17/14 05:41 PM

There is a nice diagnal tips/finger crack on the 80-degree face across the gap from the Pebbles slab. On top-rope it felt like a 5.12 (maybe 5.12+), probably takes brassies the whole way. It might go as a boulder problem as well, but it\'s pretty ta
Other Climbing Areas
Jump to new posts Needles, South Dakota beta? by Elwood54 @ 09/17/14 02:42 PM

Hey Guys, does anyone have any quick beta on the area? I\'m heading there in a couple of weeks. Just wondering how a Gunks climber will find the ratings, if there are any climbs that shouldn\'t be missed and anything else I won\'t learn from the guid
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