Beatle Brow Bulge it is. 5.9+ in Black Dick but 5.10a in Grey Dick. There's no fixed pro; I think 10a is appropriate for an onsight lead, 'cause you gotta climb it while hanging on to protect it. Todd climbed directly up to the tree rather than trending right as pictured in the guide---surely this is the "right" way to go.

As an aside, on the rappel I clipped into some nice new webbing and, almost as an afterthought, also into an older strand. When Dave came down, he said that the new sling had dropped off into his lap; it was just draped around the tree. If that had been my only connection, I might have taken the big ride to oblivion.

This is the second time in a year that I've encountered something fatally dangerous about a rappel anchor. I posted a picture of webbing with a hidden worn-through section the last time. Of course, had I bought the farm, it would have been a clear case of pilot error, since there is no excuse for not checking the security of webbing before you entrust yourself to it. The only thing that saved my butt was a reflexive inclination to redundancy.

These two incidents point out that just because there is a fixed rap anchor with lots of webbing on it doesn't mean that the anchor is currently trustworthy. You're gonna put your whole weight on the anchor, you better not get the least bit casual about it beforehand.