Instead of trending left towards Shockley's, the direct finish goes straight up the right side of an easy pillar and out right over the huge roof at an obvious weakness on the center/right.... One book has it at 10b which seems about right if you nail the sequence. A mandatory heelhook makes it a neat move.... I snapped off a large flake that probably made it somewhat easier before but not enough to change the grade... We only TR'd P3 though so I can't comment on the gear other than it would be "challenging". Heh....

P3, whichever way, is definitely the only "three star" pitch worth doing IMO... P1 was ok but certainly not memorable.

I should have clarified that only P2 seemed like a loose and creepy R-rated shitpile (only compared to other "3-star" Gunks climbs). Or maybe I missed some gear placements or was just offroute somehow.......


Check it out....

-Fear