I love the whole climb. The first pitch is mellow fun 5.8 with one slight runout.
The second pitch is great. It takes a little patience and cool head, but has good moves over that small overhang down low. You can get good gear in just under the roof in several spots and one is actually in solid rock. As was previously stated pull down and not out on the potato chip flake. You get bomber gear once past this spot. Once over that overhang move sligthly right and then straight up through a bunch of interesting moves. It is a litte run out a little higher up but the climbing is not that difficult. There is a good bit of loose rock on this pitch but I find that it adds to the charm of the route and helps to keep this fantastic route free of traffic.
The third pitch is great.
Everyones opinion will vary but I think this is one of the best 5.9's around. The rock quality is not as good as say Insulation nor are the moves as aesthic but still a great 3 pitch route.
Edited by Coppertone (08/11/06 04:45 AM)