Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
The new climbing anchors book by John Long does present a lot of changes in recommended rigging, most notably negative aspects of a cordelette and that using a daisy or other static tie in has been implicated as major factors in some recent fatalities. Our own RG is quoted at length and seems to be the mastermind behind the cordelette analysis. I'm ready to change but thought to ask a couple questions. First, does switching to a dynamic cordelette reduce the problems appreciably? I've been aware of the unegual loading problem awhile after catching some falls by a second and noting that the load rarely gets shared as much as possible. When in a vertical crack or set of anchors (rare at the gunks), I've started tying the cordelette knot so that I purposely have more tension on the longer arms in order to reduce increased stretch weighting these less. Has any research been done as to whether this provides any improvement? Thanks in advance.