The route is Shangrila. I haven't gotten onto Moonlight Buttress (hopefully in April) but this is supposed to be nearly as good, but when compared to Rainbow Wall (which is supposed to be one of the best long routes in Red Rocks, Shangrila makes Rainbow Wall look like a pile of kitty litter. It sits about an hour hike up Lost Canyon which is a side branch of Damfino Canyon, but if you do ever want to try it, ask and I can give you better directions then found in either the web or guidebooks

Just two views
http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/463325.JPG and http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/463299.JPG

it is stiff though. P1; 512.a (tips crack or most men go to the arete, 5-6 green C3's (blue aliens). P2: 5.11d fingers lieback flake (skip the two bolts since it will drag your rope into the flake), 2 grey 0.4, and 4 purple 0.5 camalots, P3 5.12d 2 blue 0.3 camalots and 6 bolts or skip the bolts and use 6 green C3's (blue aliens), P4 5.11c varied hands take gear between 0.4 and 3.0 camalot, P5 5.11c (some will say 5.11d) has a wider section but same rack as as pitch 4.

If you are in Sedona and hit up this one (though the rock isn't as awesome as Shangrila), also try Castles in the Sand (5.11d) http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/492275.JPG . P1: beautiful 5.11 rnglocks that seems more like Indian Creek, P2: 5.11d handjam out a 6-7ft roof and jam your way up easier ground to a second roof. P3 5.11d: traverse out a 20ft roof out a fist crack , pull the edge and belay.


Edited by Chas (02/23/09 02:46 PM)