Originally Posted By: LarE
Just out of curiosity, how often do we think KC sees a free ascent these days? Once a weekend? Once a month? Once a season?

As far as the fixed gear thing goes, seems to me KC is a borderline case. You sure wouldn't want to leave fixed gear all over a 10 or 11 you were working on, unless it was EXTREMELY obscure; and you could certainly be forgiven for leaving it on a 12 or 13, especially if it is relatively out of the way (say, Twilight Zone, Project X). In a borderline case, it seems best to be polite: if you're the climber, don't leave your gear all the way down to the ground; if you find the gear, cut the other guy some slack and leave it untouched. But whatever...

Believe me. Its not cool on 5.12's or 5.13's, even if you are working them. If it takes too much energy to replace the gear on your next burn, you aren't really ready for the grade or atleast that route. The only time I've even considering doing this (and I was only going to leave my biners on the lower off bolts) was on a certain .13 at Indian Creek (and it was only to entice me to go back the following day even though I had pretty bad gobbies from the current days attempts.)