Richard:
All good points in a very difficult area. But there was some pin removal going on part way through the change and I think it would be worrisome if it were to become a problem now.

You and I were both there for the carry out. It was not forgettable.

Afterwards I went up on that climb and found all the fixed protection was gone.

I don't have any answers to the question of whether there is a better way of doing things. But that experience defintitely sensitized me to what can happen when someone decides to act generally and unilaterally.

As for pins rusting I would not counsel using cadmium plated pins such as I made. Rain is sufficiently acidic to remove traces of the cadmium and leave it on the rock. There are probably not many of mine left at this late date.


Edited by jstan (10/18/09 09:22 PM)