Originally Posted By: GOclimb
First of all, congrats on the send. What a cool roof, you must've been psyched!

I do think that Rangerrob and all the other armchair ethicists have been slacking, however, because all that fixed gear was still on the route. Some selfish litterbug aid climber deprived me of a true trad ascent, and I cried the real tears all night.

What gear do you mean? I've only been on the route once - I aided it, oh, around five or six years ago. I can say pretty confidently that every nut, cam, and ballnut I clipped were ones that I placed, and I removed. None were fixed. As for pins, I don't recall what there was in situ, but if they were there, they were very few, and didn't do much either to get me out the roof, or over the lip (the aid crux).


Hey Gabe,

Here are the details of the gear from both times that I was on the route (Memorial Day, and Columbus Day). From the fixed pin anchor at the back of the roof, there is/was a stopper that is clippable from the stance, barely. There is another stopper about four feet from that, and another about a foot above that (right in the meat of the undercling to sloper crux). From there, there is a fixed pin about four feet farther in a horizontal crack (right next to a bomber red or gold camalot placement).

I did place one cam at the lip, after I had thrown my foot over my head: a purple or green camalot just to protect the final mantle.

Here is a video of a guy doing it barefoot with entirely fixed gear as far as I can tell. He is using pre-placed draws, and there is probably a mob of angry trad climbers led by rangerrob waiting at the base to club him to death with their hexes:

Here is a video of D.D. DuLac at the Petzl Rocktrip a few years ago doing it (skip past about five minutes of bad techno and Euros bouldering to get to the good stuff). The video quality is not great, but it looks like he may be placing a cam near the final pin. He also is not doing it on fixed draws, but that's because he is a cheese-eating surrender frog who warms up on 13+. I don't know if he drilled a couple monos to avoid the handjams, though:

Anyway, hope that clears some stuff up.