Wallface: Part II
The route now took a turn and led to an alcove capped by a roof.
Alright! We are gunks climbers, bring on the roofs!!!
What was up with the crack though! C'mon, no jugs at the lip?!?!
Cool finger jamming with a sense of exposure really made this pitch something special. I was up and down a few times to get things cleaned off. The rock was OK but the lichen started getting a bit thick.
A sole foothold on the edge of the roof kept the move from leaving the 5.10 range. Drenched in sweat I arrived at a little alcove and rigged a belay. Rob came up the pitch and arrived no less sweaty. How could we complain we were alone on a beautiful section on unclimbed rock in the wilderness! We still complained.
The last pitch turned ugly and despite its easier grade ( probably 5.7) it required a great deal of attention. Egg shell layers of rock really made the protection questionable and there was some mandatory peeling to get to the better rock.
The pitch finally topped out and we took a nice break before thrashing our way over to the Free Ride anchors.
It was satisfying to step off the cliff and not leave a single piece of gear or some sling to weather into tat. It wasn't a free-ride, so we thought... you pay as you go...