Criss Cross Direct:

Use caution, as of last weekend the pitons were missing from the anchor, as were a few of the nuts, links, a biner, and a new coredellette. The remaining anchor is found small nuts "equalized" with a single quick link.

I kind of like an anchor there. Following the first move (crux) with 100 feet of rope out and a belayer out of eyesight would suck, and the route dramatically changes its nature above the "anchor." 5.8 R face climbing leads to a 5.10a exit move through a wild roof. Exhilarating, but a very different feel...

D. Lucander