Originally Posted By: Lucander
Criss Cross Direct:

Use caution, as of last weekend the pitons were missing from the anchor, as were a few of the nuts, links, a biner, and a new coredellette. The remaining anchor is found small nuts "equalized" with a single quick link.

I kind of like an anchor there. Following the first move (crux) with 100 feet of rope out and a belayer out of eyesight would suck, and the route dramatically changes its nature above the "anchor." 5.8 R face climbing leads to a 5.10a exit move through a wild roof. Exhilarating, but a very different feel...

D. Lucander


Falling from the 5.8 R section onto that anchor would be very very bad. It's a great pitch nonetheless with a very exciting exit.

There is a way to protect the second at the close to the ground crux, even if the leader is at the top, if anyone wants to talk gear. It's a bit convoluted but perhaps better than risking falling on that lousy mid climb anchor. It works for protecting the second on P1 if stringing the first two pitches of Enduroman together too. It's pretty simple really.


Edited by Kent (04/12/11 08:45 PM)