Originally Posted By: chip
Nothing wrong with a little thread drift, Kent. What is your solution?


First, the two climbs I mention, Criss Cross and Enduroman, are in crowded areas, and so other climbers are often hanging around waiting to climb. Recruit one.

Then the leader trails two full strength ropes. Let's call them ropes #1 and #2. Rope #1 is to lead on, and rope #2 is for rigging through a gear anchor placed at a decent rest on the first pitch. Rope #2 gets fed back down to the ground. Then the leader leads all the way to the top of pitch 2 on rope #1.

The following climber, still on the ground, ties into both ropes and climbs. Rope #1 is belayed by the leader at the top of pitch 2. Rope #2, which is effectively a top rope, is belayed by the recruit from the ground. When the following climber reaches the anchor for rope #2, the recruit is free to go and rope #2 can be dropped or trailed.

If this is done on Criss Cross the risks associated with the iffy gear at the beginning of the R section are greatly reduced and the following climber is still well protected from rope stretch and ground fall at the near ground pitch 1 crux.

If this is done on the first two pitches of Enduroman it allows the leader to follow a more elegant line, a crack that transects the Directissima traverse, rather than going up to the belay at the top of the ramp before starting pitch 2, while still protecting the following climber from rope stretch and ground fall on the close to the ground crux of pitch 1.

Another alternative is to lead straight to the top of pitch 2 and have a very strong follower, one who is very unlikely to fall at the close to the ground crux, but those two cruxes are 10a and 11c respectively. Pretty stout for most.


Edited by Kent (04/14/11 01:45 PM)