Originally Posted By: worthrussell
I went straight for the tree. I guess that was my mistake.

Yup, a mistake made by many. The tree is tempting, but once you're on the tree it's very hard to get off the tree (or so I've been told).

I've never heel hooked on the route, but I took a much shorter second who said he heel hooked three times. I've heard about the knee bar--even had a second who used it--but I've never found it, maybe because I've been too concerned about powering through the crux before I pump out to look for it. Also, I'm tall.

<warning: gear beta>

I get the obvious gear at the good stance before the first overhang. I get gear again in the vertical crack below the last overhang, just before the last traverse right. I'd highly recommend taking the time there to place something; a fall at the end of the traverse, entirely possible if one is pumped out, would be a very big pendulum if the last pieces are under the first roof.