I have a question. I want to do Scary Area. There are two bolts off the ground. One is new and one is old. Mark Robinson put in the new one and Kligfield put in the old one.

My question is, what is with this old bolt? How deep does it go into the rock? How long a fall could it take when it is new? And if it cannot take falls [plural] or the original fall today can it be replaced with a new bolt of the same make at a time where it starts to come loose or has reached its expiration date? Or can it be replaced with a stainless steel bolt?

I can imagine the first response might be "Just leave it alone don, haven't you done enough damage there already?"

If we can forget about me for the time being, I just want to know the answer to this question.

I would assume that the old bolt should have been removed and a better bolt put in its place. However, then again, we would lose the chance to fall on the original bolt. But how many times can people fall on a bolt like that? I know people do not fall on that bolt anyway. [But they do lower off it.] At least that is my suspicion. I never fell on it.

Another question I have is when the old bolt popes out, how do you replace it with the same kind of bolt, won't the hole be damaged?

I have no intentions of hanging around on it or falling on it or pulling it out. However when it pulls from someone else the climb will be 5" more dangerous because the now new bolt is over to the left. So when it pulls out a new bolt should be put back. But what kind of bolt do you put there? Something as close to the original is possible, only stainless steel?

I suppose Mark Robinson and John Brag supposed that climbing ethics would become better as time went on. And that trends would follow their logical path of high standards, that in the future there would not be any people who might stress out bolts like that and that would appreciate it's preservation. But what they foresaw never came to be. Today people hang their way up climbs and then pull the rope through and maybe or maybe not hang some more until there is not more hanging around. I was told that this is aid climbing. I try not to hang on climbs, I think it is unnecessary. I try and lower down after spending myself placing gear. I never make it my goal to flash anything. I don't want of fall on suspicious gear. I have been top-roping, but I am starting to get back to leading again. If I do hang on something it is because am I getting ready to realize I cannot do it at all and take it all apart.

So, I will be lowering off that bolt.

I post this here because it has to do with bolt thinking within these other ideas and may shed some new light on the topic of bolts.
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.