Originally Posted By: donald perry
I have a question. I want to do Scary Area. There are two bolts off the ground. One is new and one is old. Mark Robinson put in the new one and Kligfield put in the old one.

My question is, what is with this old bolt? How deep does it go into the rock? How long a fall could it take when it is new? And if it cannot take falls [plural] or the original fall today can it be replaced with a new bolt of the same make at a time where it starts to come loose or has reached its expiration date? Or can it be replaced with a stainless steel bolt?

I can imagine the first response might be

There is no restriction as to type or size of replacement bolt in Preserve policy. The only thing expressly prohibited are new pitons or bolts - existing ones can be replaced. All the old 1/4" bolts that have been replaced were replaced with whatever was considered appropriately modern at the time of replacement. Some were replaced with 3/8"x3-1/2" 5-piece, others with 10mm glue-ins.