I'm not at the moment advocating one way or the other, and I think we have to thank Stefan for his work in any case, but I think it premature to say that the Yosemite finish "unties the knot." (And we have some evidence from a test just done by Jim Titt that this is not the case.)

For more on this, see the thread at UKC climbing,

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=513200.

My post discussing the issues is at

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=513200&v=1#x6950860

and Jim Titt's response with his test is at

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=513200&v=1#x6950948.