Originally Posted By: Alex
The Gunks and Eldorado are often compared. I agree with you. They're not similiar at all, but yet many of the cruxy moves at Eldorado could be twins to Gunks' cruxes.

Yes, that's it precisely. Well put.

What I was previously comparing was that both have equally strenuous old school gear placing.

Interesting - I suppose they're equally strenuous in the sense that they're both face climbing, so you need to sometimes place pieces from strenous face holds. But in terms of the actual protection itself, I find the two places remarkably dissimilar.

After coming from the Gunks, It took me a very long time to work through the grades to where I was comfortable climbing anywhere near my limit here, and the reason is mostly due to how different it is to assess the gear placements. The rock in Eldo is so much more broken, and while a lot of the holds one grabs are quite solid, many of the cracks where you find placements are in rock that would in the Gunks be considered choss. Let me tell you, that took some major getting used to!

Then there's also the fact that many climbs here in Eldo have good but *tiny* gear protecting hard moves. I place probably ten times as many brassies here as I did in the Gunks.