Reviving this old thread just to say:

(1) The first pitch is a little bit scary. You get gear right at the 5.8 crux but then it is run out for a while and the climbing, while maybe not 5.8, is not trivial either. Dick suggests you sling a certain block but I couldn't figure out how to do it in a way that I thought would really work. One move after the block you do finally get some good pro but if you fall at the block and the sling pops off you are going to hit the bulge below.

(2) I don't know why people think the second pitch is so bad, maybe it has cleaned up a bit? Certainly some loose blocks right below the crux and some shaky flakes here and there but all of it easily avoided. I've seen a lot more loose stuff on classic pitches elsewhere in the Gunks. Fun crux, roof a little hard for 5.8+. I believe the initial reference to a "potato chip" above was regarding the crucial hold over the roof. It is a thin hold but I thought it was solid. There are a few nice steep moves after the roof. I liked this pitch.

(3) The third pitch is awesome. The pin is gone. If you are short like me you have to commit to the little finger-sized horizontal before you can place anything there and the placement is blind. But it's all you'll get. Great roof problem! And then you get to finish up a nice bit of Shockley's.
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