No Picnic and Tequila Mockingbird are undergraded. The overhang of No Picnic is, I think, a bit harder than the 5.8 climb immediately to its right, Shit or Go Blind. Tequila Mockingbird is very strenuous in nature and at the risk of perpuating the old urban myth of 'Gunks ratings, if that pitch was anywhere else besides the 'Gunks it would be rated a grade or two higher.
I think practice in stress-free situations is key. Climbing is like any other physical skill. It takes a lot of repetition to reach the point of intuitive performance, so if you can toprope a lot of roofs eventually you'll learn to do it. One of the great comp climbers of the 90s said that he won all the World Cups not because he was stronger and more fit than his competitors; he said simply climbed more efficiently. He spent countless hours analyzing his climbing movements, the movements of others, watching videos, etc. He realized that the same climbing "situations" happened over and over again and there was an effective, efficent solution to each one. Because of this approach, he could reach an overhang, quickly recognize what the problem was and plug in the right technique. He once remarked that he would see 5.14 climbers get to a roof and act as if they had never seen one before.
With lots and lots of practice you'll gain strength, you'll gain enough experience so that the proper approach/technique to the roof you're trying will be right there in your mental data bank, and you'll gain confidence, as well. You'll reach an overhang and you'll know what to do, you'll know you have the strength to do it, and you'll have the confidence that you can. Lots and lots of practice in a safe learning environment.
Edited by Dana (02/12/13 05:11 PM)