Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
Originally Posted By: Adrian
Unless I misread something, if you are belaying off your harness, regardless of direct or redirect, the breaking method is the same "Down to your hip".


Absolutely not. If you are belaying off your harness with an ATC type device, the braking position is up near the chest, and this was the the primary reason that the belayer in this accident was not able to control the fall once the directional pulled.

Once the redirection point had failed, the "down to the hip" hand position has no braking effect and the belayer effectively has nothing more than the rope making a 180 degree bend around the device carabiner for friction. This is the reason an ATC belayer belaying the leader begins with a palm-up braking hand position and is ready to bring their braking hand to their chest in case the leader falls with no pro in.


I think my mental picture is completely off. In belaying leader, the brake position is brake hand down to the hip. In this video, at 2'50.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvEQrKOtUZg