I generally like the "convenience" anchors that the Preserve has installed at the top of the P1 of various routes. And I like that they recently improved the convenience of the Son of Easy O anchor.

There's not so many days with dry rock in the Gunks that fit my schedule, and I have to drive a significant time to get to the Gunks -- so I want to make the most of each day I get. Building Trad anchors is a waste of precious time. (If I need practice in the "dying art" of building Trad anchors to prepare for some multi-pitch alpine route, I know how to get that -- No reason to mix that in with a precious fun day of Gunks easy climbing.

But I (like most people who climb Sixish) do enjoy leading P2, and do enjoy doing Sixish as a three-pitch climb to the top of the ridge. So having a traffic jam at the top of P1 is not what I favor. I think the number of parties who want to do only P1 of Sixish is like 1 in a 1000. So I feel the current P1 anchor of Sixish (as of last week) is just the right level of "convenience" for me (and I did back up the pitons with a piece of Trad gear).

Ken

P.S. my challenge to RGold:
OK so you recognize that it's OK for people to rap down instead of walking. So what positive advice do you give to people who want to rap down after climbing P3 of Sixish?
(because in the absence of a positive alternative, lots of people who climb with a single rope are going to want to rap down to that Sixish P1 anchor.)



Edited by kenr (06/13/13 04:50 AM)