I'm having trouble understanding how lack of bolt (or other convenience) anchors is a crucial part of the Gunks "adventure" experience.

When I lead indoors, usually I find that making the clip at an intermediate bolt is the crux of the climb (hanging on with one hand) -- and sometimes I've backed off on indoor leads because pulling out the rope and contemplating a significant fall was mentally too much.

Sport climbing outdoors -- I can remember a couple of times even with bolt anchors where I was so pumped when I reached the overhanging anchor that I was afraid I was going to take a substantial fall while making the final clip - (and the only time I ever got significantly injured Leading was an intermediate fall on a bolted route).

Gunks -- In all the Gunks climbs I've led so far, the belay was on some horizontal ledge with a good stance, and the Trad gear placement "rocket science" was sticking three cams into a horizontal crack. (I even use the climbing rope with clove hitches to connect to the cams -- none of that unnecessary Cordelette stuff for me.)

I do feel the adventure of contemplating falling on a "PG" route and breaking my ankle hitting one of those notorious Gunks horizontals. I do get the adventure of fiddling to find the right stopper while standing on little footholds on a typical Gunks slab/face.

My concept of "adventure" implies uncertainty with serious negative consequences. How do most Gunks belay stations deliver on that?


Edited by kenr (06/13/13 10:45 AM)