Originally Posted By: kenr
Gunks -- In all the Gunks climbs I've led so far, the belay was on some horizontal ledge with a good stance, and the Trad gear placement "rocket science" was sticking three cams into a horizontal crack. (I even use the climbing rope with clove hitches to connect to the cams -- none of that unnecessary Cordelette stuff for me.)

I've only climbed at JTree, Zion, Yosemite, Red Rock and east coast areas. As far as I remember, all belays are on good ledges (except Tunnel Vision P2 worse belay bolts ever). Crimson Chrysalis is bad too, lol.

Originally Posted By: kenr

My concept of "adventure" implies uncertainty with serious negative consequences. How do most Gunks belay stations deliver on that?

Is that what you really want for belay stations? Hop on some dessert routes, that'll probably wake you up.

Originally Posted By: SethG

Instead I object because these anchors tend to influence climbers to skip the upper pitches, lead to traffic jams, and contribute to polish on popular routes.

Well, how do we address traffic jams on No Glow, Keep On Struttin' ledge?

I don't know, I agree with RG mostly, but I don't think there is a solution to the problem.

Edited by Adrian (06/13/13 04:11 PM)