Lead it twice. Hard moves at the start are protected, but I think they are underrated at 5.10b.. The runout starts where Dave is in the picture; last piece below his feet, next piece quite a bit higher. It reminds me of the runout on Tough Shift; straightforward moves that get easier as you progress, but there is a potential for a long fall. I also did it with Russ Clune, he led that pitch and said "That's a reala pant-loader."
Despite the guidebook warning, the second pitch is well protected, and it is a nice bit of climbing.

Edited by Dana (07/21/13 12:46 PM)