I wanted to add that everyone's version of "R" is subjective (stating the obvious here). One person's teetering pink tricam at the very lip of a shallow flared horizontal might be bomber, while for someone else ... not so much. Depends on your own personal comfort level, climbing ability, etc. etc. I've run out sections of 5.6 - 5.9 climbing (usually after harder sections) 20 to 30 feet because I was in the zone, and other days I've been a basket case unless I had a bomber blue Camelot at my chest lol.