Originally Posted By: tradjunkie


If y'all prefer to send traffic down 3 Pines, then let's cut the top anchor and see what happens. If it doesn't get replaced, great.


I did this experiment, probably five years ago now. The rap station from the top reappears, and probably pretty quickly. Most likely this from climbers coming up from below thinking they can reach the 2-pin anchor exactly as you describe.

The only viable solution that does not involve major anchor work is to chop both. Then climbers coming up won't think of putting the top anchor back in, and climbers moving along the cliff won't see the top anchor and assume there is a viable rap route.

Clearly some climbers think its OK to remove gear that's left to back up the existing mank but I would rather not beef up the anchor permanently with new honking pins a la SOEO. Its not a major toprope destination, which was the argument advanced in that example and which I still find uncompelling.