Dave, on the second pitch I recall getting the purple and grey Metolius TCUs to protect that section. Some people feel and -and they have a point - that those pieces are just too small to be considered protection. But both of them together? Probably good.

Mike, yes, in terms of protection that first section up to the the crux is classic, classic 'Gunks - a cluster of tiny nuts and cams characterized as:

crap
probably okay
maybe okay
these pieces are a joke
might hold a fall
will rip out under body weight


Etc., etc.

And to think. There are people out there would like to install bolts at the 'Gunks and deprive us all of this sublime pleasure.