Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc

The problems we are seeing in the Trapps are the proliferation of non-bolted anchors of varying quality and longevity, a process that undermines the Preserve concept of established descent lines that would keep dangerous and frustrating two-way traffic on routes to a minimum.


RG, I haven't climbed here as long as you have but I am quickly approaching my 30th season in the Gunks and during this time it seems that the number of anchors have remained about the same, perhaps there are fewer anchors now. Maybe I am fooling myself and I am not remembering things clearly, but that is my recollection. As a teenager learning to lead in the Gunks we never considered the descent because you could rappel anywhere because there were always trees with slings. My mentors taught me never to rappel off of trees without slings due to the damage done to the tree, but I still witnessed this being done. It also seemed that there were many more solitary anchors, such as a single sling on a small tree 30 feet up. With shorter ropes and no standard rappel routes people often came up short and just swung over to the nearest tree. It also seemed like there were more people getting off route or getting in over their heads back then, so there were more bail slings. Today, the difference is that the trees are all dying.