5.8 is my lead limit. I backed off of my first lead ever on Birdland. I followed the climb last year without any problems and it looks straight forward. For me the crux moves are around the right facing flake thing between the second and third pin. I backed up and equalized the second pin then climbed up followed by 10 minutes of fiddling with gear in the little crack at the crux. There is a broken off pin in this crack that kept me from getting anything solid in there. I finally got two mediocre small nuts in a couple inches higher. By this time I was too tired to do the crux move.
Does anyone protect at the crux? If so, how?
Thanks for the gear beta...seems silly Birdland looks straightforward from the ground.