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#10095 - 10/06/03 01:21 PM The Blackout
Allenperry Offline
member

Registered: 02/11/03
Posts: 195
Loc: Reading, Pennsylvania
Climbed the Blackout on Friday with Paul Curran. What a great route! The roof on P3 is too much fun. (I think if I lead it next time I'll bring a clip-stick for the bolt at the roof section, it's definitely R till you clip that sucker.)

We also ticked off a bunch of other .9's and .10s. Apoplexy, Higher Standard, Try Again, Coex, Never Never Land.

Great Day!

Perry
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#10096 - 10/06/03 01:32 PM Re: The Blackout [Re: Allenperry]
PeteG Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/30/00
Posts: 300
Loc: Saranac Lake, NY
Good job.

The climbing to the bolt is fairly easy, I don't see the need to stick-clip it.

Did you pull the overhang at the bolt, or traverse to the right about 6' before pulling it? I've done it both ways and found it easier to go directly over the bolt -- IMHO.

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#10097 - 10/06/03 02:11 PM Re: The Blackout [Re: PeteG]
Allenperry Offline
member

Registered: 02/11/03
Posts: 195
Loc: Reading, Pennsylvania
Went staight up at the bolt. It's true, the climbing isn't hard to the bolt, 5.7ish when you make the clip from the crimpy flake under the lip. But you're looking at about a twenty footer to the ledge - If you stop there

After climbing with Paul till 3:30 I met up with Evan and I followed him up V3. We made the arrangement through the new partner database. Worked great. Good climbing Evan.
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