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#10151 - 10/09/03 01:17 PM Stubai to you
Anonymous
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Led 1st pitch of WASP on Friday, does anybody have any beta on the second pitch, aka is it worth doing?


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#10152 - 10/09/03 01:22 PM Re: Stubai to you
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5979
Loc: 212 land
The upper pitches are very different from the first - lower angle, easier, with a fun overhang. I'd say they're worth doing.
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#10153 - 10/09/03 01:30 PM Re: Stubai to you [Re: oenophore]
Anonymous
Unregistered


The guidebook rates the pitch at "5.9 pg", do you think that is accurate?

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#10154 - 10/09/03 03:18 PM Re: Stubai to you
GeeVee Offline
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Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Led 1st pitch of WASP on Friday, does anybody have any beta on the second pitch, aka is it worth doing?

Is that common, for the second pitch of a climb to have a different name to the first ptich? And "Is it worth doing?" is such an odd name. Why wouldn't it just be called P2 of Wasp?
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#10155 - 10/09/03 03:33 PM Re: Stubai to you [Re: GeeVee]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
There is a second pitch to Wasp. It starts a little left of the pine tree belay and heads up and left on a loose wall with poor pro, but only 5.5-ish. The rest of the pitch is unmemorable, dirty in spots, vegetated in others - basically easy climbing with the occasional 5.6 move tossed in.

Stubai to You is a variation finish (hence the different name) that goes up, traverses right to the hanging corner, turns the hang, then goes more or less straight up. In older guidebooks it was a sandbag 8, so 9PG sounds/feels about right.
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#10156 - 10/09/03 03:37 PM Re: Stubai to you [Re: GeeVee]
paborden Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/18/03
Posts: 366
Loc: On the road...
Actually, we´re talking about two different second pitches here...

Wasp has a second pitch that is definately NOT worth doing.

Williams eliminates the second pitch of wasp and pairs the first pitch with "an old aid-variation" called Stubai To You. So called because Williams´(?) Stubai hammer head broke on the first ascent. It too is 5.9 PG.

I´ve heard mixed things about this one having asked the same question myself a couple months ago...the consensus seemed to be that, if I had just done wasp, it might be worth doing, but definately not worth going back for if I skipped it.

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#10157 - 10/09/03 05:02 PM Re: Stubai to you [Re: paborden]
Rosceaux Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/28/00
Posts: 86

Followed this one years ago. If the second pitch of Stubai involves an undercling crack in the roof that traverses rightwards before pulling the final move, then that's what we did. I thought it was really fun and a nicer way to cap off the easier climbing through most of the Wasp pitch. I'd even make the journey up just to do that again.

Mike

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#10158 - 10/09/03 05:12 PM Re: Stubai to you [Re: Rosceaux]
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5979
Loc: 212 land
If the second pitch of Stubai involves an undercling crack in the roof that traverses rightwards before pulling the final move, then that's what we did. I thought it was really fun and a nicer way to cap off the easier climbing through most of the Wasp pitch. I'd even make the journey up just to do that again.

I'll be darned; for decades I thought that was the last pitch of Wasp.
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#10159 - 10/10/03 01:15 AM Re: Stubai to you [Re: oenophore]
Fraser Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/15/02
Posts: 701
Loc: New Canaan, CT
Oenophore wrote:
The upper pitches are very different from the first - lower angle, easier, with a fun overhang.

I think that is the second pitch of Sticky Gate (having just done it with fdpiton last Friday)- not Wasp. Swain says the second pitch kind of goes straight up. By the way watch out for loose rock at the top. We could always track down Dick at the New and get an answer.

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#10160 - 10/10/03 01:18 AM Re: Stubai to you [Re: oenophore]
Rosceaux Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/28/00
Posts: 86

I'll be darned, for decades you've been wrong!

MD

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