Had a nice weekend this weekend, not a ton of climbing but all worthwhile stuff. I led Tennish anyone, very stout and demanding.
Then tried the direct versions of a couple of climbs Blistered Toe & Pas de Duex.
Blistered Toe was easy to see the direct start for and took me half a dozen tries to get up, but I finally made it its a good landing to jump down to if you cant make it, and a green alien protects you if you can hang on to place it once you are almost through. That start was every bit some 9 moves, and the rest of the climb was somewhat sustained and 8 to 8+ IMO. The direct version is easy to see.
Finished off on Sunday leading Pas Deux direct - I think. Im looking for some confirmation here.
I've never been on this climb before, but I have seen many people on it.
I started right under the crack under that little roof just left of the left facing corner, then right up into the crack, aiming to the thank God horizontal.
I got a set of opposed nut it just under the start of the crack to keep my options for hand hold completely opened. But even still I puzzled over that start there for 20 minutes! then when I did finally make it, it felt WAY harder than 5.8, I noticed in the book that the direct version description *seems* to be consistent with the way I climbed if the direct start goes at a 10.
I consider myself very solid in the 8s, but this move was hard, harder than the direct start of blistered toe - not having enough to keep you off the deck and having to make such a thin balanced AND strong move to get to a stance might be making it seem harder than it was.
My question is if you ignore the face to the right of the corner did you do the direct start? - or am I being chicken shit and thats just the move on the regular route.