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#10197 - 10/15/03 01:02 PM Psychedelic
lillajag Offline

Registered: 08/08/01
Posts: 36
Steven Cherry wrote a small comment on this route under a different thread:

Psychedelic, 5.9-
If you can find this route (hint- the Swain description is more accurate than the Williams, even though Dick was in on the first ascent!), it's a total trip! A great 5.9 overhang problem, followed by a moderate and exposed traverse of the clods.

I tried it the past weekend. Starting off from GT, diagonalling up left, pull a roof, further up left for a belay in the alcove 20-25ft straight below the opening move of the Modern Times crux. William's description then talks about a slight down climbing traverse and rates it at 8+. It looks really improbable, so I whimped out and followed Swain's horizontals diagonalling slightly upwards to the right. Does anyone know if William's book after all is correct, because the Swain variation was definetly not an 8+? Anyone who has older guide books, is there any more detailed or different descriptions out there? I'm too much chicken to go find out the hard way and get lost onto a 5.11R climb in that area...

#10198 - 10/15/03 03:32 PM Re: Psychedelic [Re: lillajag]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
The older guidbooks actually have less detail. I've been up there 3 times over the years and never found the line that would keep it between 8 and 9. Williams gave it an 8 in 72 and upgraded the route to a 9 in 80. Neither of those guides contain individual pitch ratings. The description from the GT ledge from the 80 guidebook (which is the same as in the 72 guide) reads:

P3: Walk right to chimney. Climb chimney to a small ledge. Move left and up past overhang to a belay spot (50 ft).

P4: Climb up, then traverse down and right for about 40 ft., which puts one at a spot about 10 ft below the level of the belayer at the end of the traverse. Continue up the face and back left to protect the second (80 ft.).

P5: Scramble up to the top (30 ft).
- Marc

#10199 - 10/16/03 03:28 PM Re: Psychedelic [Re: lillajag]
dw@vmc Offline

Registered: 01/09/03
Posts: 10
Lillajag, the route description in my black guide is not very clear. I climbed it recently so as to write a new description for a new guide book. It was alot harder than I remembered. On the FA I lead pitch 2 and thought it was 5.8, this time I thought it was 5.9+ and my partner agreed. The original P3 is no fun (scary) so we finished via a different line, which is exciting but only about 5.6 PG. The following is the new route description from the GTLedge:
Pitch 2: 5.9+ G Walk right to a chimney and follow it to a small ledge and tree. Move up past jutting block to overhang, work up left to a good stance (crux) and make a belay (V1). (50 ft)
Pitch 3: 5.6 PG Go up about 10 feet to overhang and reddish rock and wide horizontal crack. Follow the path of least resistance right for about 40 feet with feet at lip of overhangs before going straight up to the top. (80 ft)
Variation 1: 5.8+ PG (Original route) Move up a few feet, hand traverse right to a stance on a pointy nose, then traverse down and right about 40 feet with feet on lip of overhangs before going straight up to top. (80 ft)
I hope this helps you find your way and that you enjoy the experience.

#10200 - 10/16/03 05:35 PM Re: Psychedelic [Re: dw@vmc]
rustyrabbit Offline

Registered: 03/27/02
Posts: 168
Loc: village of new paltz

I climbed it recently so as to write a new description for a new guide book.

Do you have a publication date in mind?

It's just a box of rain, I don't know who put it there

#10201 - 10/17/03 12:33 AM Re: Psychedelic [Re: dw@vmc]
Steven Cherry Offline


Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
I don't know that there's really any inconsistency between the two descriptions given (DW's and Marc's). The trick is that the step down is really only for the belay, and it's only a step.

I'm not sure I agree with the 9+ rating. I think it's very important that you be comfortable with the type of climbing involved, first a slightly grungy chimney, then hanging out at steep stances below a roof, fiddling with gear and all. The crux is sort of a step out, reach around, finding blindly the best holds. I had to make a couple of exploratory forays, coming back to the stance, before committing. But once I did, the moves weren't so hard. At least 9-, maybe 9, I'm not sure about 9+.

#10202 - 10/22/03 01:45 PM Re: Psychedelic [Re: rustyrabbit]
dw@vmc Offline

Registered: 01/09/03
Posts: 10
If all goes well (never does) it should be in print by this time next year, possibly sooner.

#10203 - 10/22/03 09:34 PM Re: Psychedelic [Re: dw@vmc]
LesterLeBlanc Offline

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1914
Loc: Los Angeles
I hope you're gonna give Richard his due and finally grade Coexistence 11a.

I guess, however, we must uphold some traditions.


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