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#10611 - 11/14/03 11:06 PM Best cold-weather routes
GOclimb Offline

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2362
Loc: Boston
Points for southern exposure, dark coloured rock, sheltered from the wind, no trees to block the sun... You get the idea. I'm posting too late to help myself this weekend, but maybe y'all will be able to help out others.


#10612 - 11/14/03 11:13 PM Re: Best cold-weather routes [Re: GOclimb]
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5981
Loc: 212 land
Peterskill has some south-facing routes.

#10613 - 11/15/03 12:17 AM Re: Best cold-weather routes [Re: GOclimb]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Classic (maybe Pink Laurel too), the Maria corner, Strictly including "Oscars Variation" corner at the bottom. Easy V should be warm on the first pitch.

#10614 - 11/15/03 02:05 AM Re: Best cold-weather routes [Re: GOclimb]
RAF Offline
site supporter

Registered: 04/12/02
Posts: 793
Loc: Colorado (!)
At the Gunks: In winter, traverse the Grand Traverse Ledge. In general, seek out face routes to the left and right of left-facing corners.

Nearby: Go to CT. Before there were climbing gyms and for a while afterwards, on any winter day that was supposed to be sunny and ~freezing or warmer, we used to go to south-facing crags in Central CT. The dark orange rock would warm up nicely. There are quite a few more options than the now-off-limits Short Wall and Winter Wall.

#10615 - 11/15/03 02:28 AM Re: Best cold-weather routes [Re: GOclimb]
LesterLeBlanc Offline

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
I was gonna say this topic has been SO DONE. But a search came up with nothing! Maybe I'm a bad searcher.

Anyway ... you can't do better than the Sun Bowl at Bonticou. But ... setting TRs there is an adventure in itself.

If you're up for the harder climbing, the Yellow Wall area is usually very good on a sunny winter day. You can tough it out by leading Airy Aria and set a TR on Scary Area which gets nice sun in the late morning. One of my last days climbing in the Gunks was in late December. Had to shovel snow off the ledge at the bottom to find a place to sit. But once on the rock, it was toasty.

If you can find anything that is angled even a bit to the south ... like say Birdland ... if there's no wind and the sun is out, you can usually climb comfortably.

One of the best winter climbing areas used to be left of the crevasse at Skytop ... but .... oh well.

#10616 - 11/15/03 03:18 PM Re: Best cold-weather routes [Re: GOclimb]
dalguard Offline

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Interesting. I would have said light colored rock, not dark.

Anyway, what you want to avoid are cracks (not so hard to avoid at the Gunks), right facing corners, and the Nears. Pretty much anything else is fine once you get above the tree line.

Edited by dalguard (11/15/03 03:18 PM)

#10617 - 11/15/03 07:54 PM Re: Best cold-weather routes [Re: Mike Rawdon]
CrackBoy Offline

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
actually watch out on maria if there is any sort of wind, i did that when it was cold and windy bit sunny., and we froze since everything blew right into the corner
Just Call me Mr. Enthusiasm

#10618 - 11/15/03 08:32 PM Re: Best cold-weather routes [Re: GOclimb]
rackrat Offline

Registered: 12/20/02
Posts: 160
Loc: NYC - UWS
Birdland, especially the second pitch, has always been a great winter climb if you can get on and off by 1pm. The first pitch of Wrist has a nice semi-offwidth left facing corner. That was nice last fall, should be fine for winter, but I would suggest skipping the first 20 feet, and simply hiking up to the upper ledge to do the clean 60 foot vertical lead.
Trad is the only way to fly.

#10619 - 11/17/03 03:49 PM Re: Best cold-weather routes [Re: GOclimb]
tico Offline

Registered: 12/12/00
Posts: 416
Loc: Gardiner, NY
I thought the obvious choice would be the snubowl at bonticou

#10620 - 11/17/03 06:13 PM Re: Best cold-weather routes [Re: GOclimb]
Steven Cherry Offline


Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
The Arrow wall, late-a.m. to early afternoon; ditto the first half of the Nears. Snooky's gets good sun until mid-afternoon.

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