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#10933 - 01/13/04 11:11 PM Where are the bolts??
Anonymous
Unregistered


The recent sharp fall in the number of posts on this site may cause some of us to work
too hard. Since the weather keeps us 'too cool' guys away from the rock, we can instead
try answering one of those big philosophical questions of life:
Where are the bolts in the Gunks?
The rap bolts have it's own listing on this site, but where are the ones we clip for pro?

To start off:
2nd pitch of Arrow: 2 bolts. Real nice and shiny, give confidence.
1st pitch of Never Never Land, 1 bolt.
1st pitch of Thin Slabs, 1 bolt. A bit on the manky side.
1st pitch of Sente, 2 bolts. Both old rusty 1/4" ?

Is there also one on 1st pitch of Tequila Mockingbird?
Could there also be one on Womb Step?

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#10934 - 01/13/04 11:37 PM Re: Where are the bolts??
Tai Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/02/03
Posts: 290
Loc: Middle of nowhere: South Salem...
There's one (piton, actually) "protecting" the crux move on Shockley's Ceiling; rusty, illmannered-looking thing. Saw a hapless leader take a fall on it; they hadn't sunk a cam or hex into the beautiful crack, in the ceiling, and couldn't pull the Move. The piton held, somehow. *shudder* This just before my first ascent of it.

T
_________________________
Fortis est veritas

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#10935 - 01/14/04 01:27 AM Re: Where are the bolts??
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Bolts that I know of:

1. Phoebe
2. Blackout
3. Dry Martini
4. Gory Thumb
5. Never Never Land
6. J'Accuse
7. Turdland (3)
8. Arrow (2)
9. Worp Factor I
10. April Showers
11. Yellow wall (2)
12. Carbs and Caffeine (2)
13. Scarey Area (2)
14. Fat City
15. Beer and Loathing (2)
16. Sente (3)
17. Wonderland
18. Thins Slabs

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#10936 - 01/14/04 04:31 AM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: Dana]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
3. Dry Martini - technically 2, the original and the new replacement.

4. Gory Thumb - on the second pitch, which perhaps sees as many as 5 ascents per decade.

19. Keep On Struttin'

A bunch at Lost City and Bonticou.

Historical ones now chopped:
Moonlight
Pumping Pygmies
_________________________
- Marc

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#10937 - 01/14/04 08:54 AM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: MarcC]
danskiz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/07/01
Posts: 244
Loc: Jamestown ny
1. Phoebe - That thing would be lucky to hold body weight!

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#10938 - 01/14/04 02:09 PM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: MarcC]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Chopped bolts:

Never Never Land (2)
Never Say Never
Farewell to Fingers

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#10939 - 01/14/04 03:04 PM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: Dana]
browndog2 Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/24/01
Posts: 767
Loc: livin' on the edge
Lets not forget that big shiny bolt on Honky Tonk Woman, which is located about 20 feet below the poorly protected crux, supposedly to keep you from decking when your optimistic gear zippers(?).
_________________________
(not that there's anything wrong with that...sorta)

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#10940 - 01/14/04 06:06 PM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: browndog2]
TARGHEE Offline
newbie

Registered: 06/30/00
Posts: 48
Loc: NYC
The April Showers' bolt is gone now - think it disappeared last year.

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#10941 - 01/14/04 08:26 PM Re: Where are the bolts??
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 192
27 bolts? Is that the number for the Gunks? I wonder how many Seneca has in comparison? Do they even have any bolted rap anchors at all? Perhaps it should have the trad-style title more than the Gunks.

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#10942 - 01/14/04 08:49 PM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: Alex]
tico Offline
addict

Registered: 12/12/00
Posts: 416
Loc: Gardiner, NY
yes, seneca has bolted rap stations, and a more interesting comparison would be a pitches per bolt for both areas. Seneca has all of 500 or so routes.

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#10943 - 01/15/04 10:21 PM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: Dana]
dw@vmc Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/09/03
Posts: 10
Dana, Never Say Never did not have a bolt placed on the first ascent and there wasn't one on it this past fall.
DW

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#10944 - 01/17/04 12:40 PM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: dw@vmc]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Never said there was a bolt placed on the first ascent, but when I did it - albeit 1981- I am pretty sure I saw a bolt scar. Perhaps it was placed on a later ascent and chopped.

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#10945 - 01/19/04 07:39 PM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: Alex]
Josh Offline
member

Registered: 12/28/99
Posts: 109
Loc: Central PA for now...
Aren't there a (small) number of true sport routes at Seneca?

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#10946 - 01/19/04 08:22 PM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: Josh]
tico Offline
addict

Registered: 12/12/00
Posts: 416
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Quote:

Aren't there a (small) number of true sport routes at Seneca?




yup. Spinnaker (sandbag .10b, i think) comes to mind, but there are other, more in the .12 range if i recall correctly.

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#10947 - 01/25/04 10:32 PM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: Dana]
dw@vmc Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/09/03
Posts: 10
Dana, you said that a bolt was chopped on Never Say Never, I know this isn't so. There used to be a bolt on the direct finish of Never Never land, maybe this is where you saw the remnants ?
dw

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#10948 - 01/29/04 04:56 PM Re: Where are the bolts??
Anonymous
Unregistered


There are a few out at Bontique also. and lost City
~Rob

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#10949 - 01/31/04 09:38 PM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: MarcC]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Where are the bolts in the Lost City? I don't think I have seen any.

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#10950 - 03/23/04 06:10 PM Re: Where are the bolts?? [Re: tico]
Schmack Offline
newbie

Registered: 09/16/02
Posts: 44
Loc: South East PA
Yeah, there are a bunch. The cave under ecstasy has a ton, all very hard stuff but fun in the WV rain. There are also a number of bolted routes on the fin on the North Side of the notch. I think they are mostly bolted instead of sport. Very hard and far between bolts.

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