Shout Box

Who's Online
1 registered (1 invisible), 2 Guests and 3 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 1 of 6 1 2 3 4 5 6 >
Topic Options
#11177 - 03/05/04 04:20 PM 2004 Gunks Tick List?
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
OK, so it's a crappy rainy day and I'm bored....

Got out this week for my first taste o' Gunks rock for 2004 , and it got me thinking about what routes I'd like to get on this year.
What are some that y'all are hoping to knock off this season?

My abbreviated list (I came up w/ over 50 ) includes the following routes:

5.7's and under - Shockley's (still ain't never been on it ), Sixish, White Pillar, Dennis, Andrew, YYYY, Casa E, the -dance climbs

5.8's - Birdland (followed it), Farewell to Arms, Double Crack, Main Line, Drunkards, Broken Sling, Alphonse, Casablanca, SoEO in 1 pitch, p1 of Birdie Party, Fat Stick to YR, Cruise Control, Portrait of the Artist

5.9's - Bonnies Direct, CCK Direct, Le Teton, Apoplexy, MF (followed), Directissima to MT (followed), WASP, Trusty Rifle, Pink Laurel, Grand Central, p1 the Spring

5.10's - we'll see....

So, when it finally stops raining , whaddaya wanna climb?
_________________________
"Flailing?" "Flail on!"

Top
#11178 - 03/05/04 05:28 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
OffTheEdge Offline
member

Registered: 08/09/03
Posts: 129
Loc: Orono, ME
Right now, the only one I NEED to do this year is thin slabs direct. For some reason it makes my stomach flip when I think of doing it and this year I'll get the stones to scratch up it....

Top
#11179 - 03/05/04 06:40 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Shockley's without. Clothes, that is, not overhangs.

GO

Top
#11180 - 03/05/04 06:49 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: GOclimb]
d-elvis Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/26/00
Posts: 3650
Loc: Central PA
High E
_________________________
"Marriage Survivor"

Top
#11181 - 03/05/04 06:52 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
similar to yours, Murph ('cept for the ones on your list I already ticked):

5.8 - Modern Times (followed a long time ago), Birdland (followed P1, every time I thought about leading it, it had a dozen people waiting), Double Crack, Yellow Belly (got near the crux first time I tried it, but it was near dark, so I bailed), Farewell to Arms.

5.9 - CCK Direct (followed), Grand Central, Inverted Layback (followed P1, led P2), MF (followed P1), Pink Laurel, Le Teton, Apoplexy.

5.10 - Disney Point (followed), Wegetables, Nosedive, Retribution (and any other 10 I think I have shot at this year, since I'm hoping this'll be the year I break through the 5.10 barrier!)

When it finally stops raining, I think I'll get on Yellow Ridge to kick off the season. It's one of my all time favorite climbs.
_________________________
we're all living proof that nothing lasts

Top
#11182 - 03/05/04 06:56 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
eowyn, except for the fact that my friend got horribly off route, and wound up on a 10 next to it.
andrew, and not get off route myself.
jackie
recent thread on frog's head made it sound interesting
finger locks
shockley's
madame G
laurel
classic?

i'd like to TR a bunch of 9's & 10's, including finally getting oops or whatever it is on the oops wall(pskill), clean, and the maybe the crack on the side of the gerdie block. and shit, while we're at it, i'd like to finally pull that damn roof on shit or go blind
and more aid and bouldering. i plan on going whoop-ass all over fire escape.
damn. i've got some big plans!
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Top
#11183 - 03/05/04 07:06 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
edk Offline
addict

Registered: 05/06/02
Posts: 441
Loc: allentown, NJ
Great thread! I've been planning my season out mostly based on left overs from last year, and starting to feel pretty good so here goes:

TRAPPS
5.10s
Coexistence
The Winter
Matinee (mans gotta have dreams right!?)
Stirrup Trouble
Erect Direction
simple stuff
Retribution
Nose Dive (gotta get it clean this year!)
Yesterdays Lemonade (bouldered the start, looks good!)

5.9s
Keep on Struttin’
W.A.S.P
Apoplexy (I have turne d this climb down more than any other, dont know why)
Friends and Lovers
Pink Laurel (did a key hold down low break off??)

5.8s
Hyjeks Horror
CCK (direct)
Ape Call


NEARS
5.10s
Fat City
Transcon ( I am more scared of this one now than ever!)
Elder Cleavage
Bird Cage
Criss Cross direct


Misc.
Cruise Control (millbrook)

Ticking one or two of these an outing would be terrific, but we'll see. I've left off some of the classic 6s 7s and 8s as they will get thrown in there as I get suggestions and pass by them.

ed

Top
#11184 - 03/05/04 07:19 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: edk]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
Hmm, my tick list for this year. ill throw on some gunks stuff in case i ever get back there or someone buys me a plane ticket

serentity crack possible link up to sons of yesterday
Royal Arches. maybe that and serentity crack in a day or add a north dome route.

Something on Cathedral spires.
Skull Queen or South Face or the Prow on Washington Column.

Reeds Direct

Surrealistic Pillar to Corregation Corner
Travellers buttress
Hardings Chimneys both of em

at the gunks
transcon
birdcage
bonnies direct,
cck direct the full version
white pillar
nose dive, basically do some 5.10s and other classic i missed

oh yea stannards roof


Edited by CrackBoy (03/05/04 07:20 PM)
_________________________
Just Call me Mr. Enthusiasm

Top
#11185 - 03/05/04 07:47 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: empicard]
JoeKayak Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/21/02
Posts: 970
Loc: Manhattan

Since I led ONE measly little climb last year (the actual 5.5 black fly and I got off route ), I kinda need to start from scratch again (you know...new a1 pulley installed, shoulder surgery behind me now). And I think I like Evan's list best. I've already led Fingerlocks and a pitch of Andrew. I'm back up to 10s in the gym and hope to tackle the rest of that list along with....

Horseman
Rhodo
Jackie
hmmm....okay don't have the book with me....

but if anyone needs a second on an .8 or .9.....give a hollar!

jk

Top
#11186 - 03/05/04 09:09 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Strictly from Nowhere
SoEO all-in-one
Drunkard's
Trusty Rifle
Birdland
Grand Central
Double Crack
Pink Laurel [Edk- the g/b refers to a hold breakage long ago, btw. I followed it as recently as October - it's same-as-ever].
Hmmm. Mayve some VERY G-rated, 10a or 10-? Hey, a girl can dream, can't she?

Top
#11187 - 03/05/04 09:26 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: JoeKayak]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
following horseman freaked me out, but i suppose i should give that one a burn as well.
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Top
#11188 - 03/06/04 02:09 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: empicard]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I need to get all the tens I have tried before clean. That would include:
Lost City Crack
Retribution
Simple Suff
Wegetables
P-38
Wishbone

Other than that my goal is to just climb and have fun. Whether that is on a dirty 5.2 or super classic 5.10 is irrelevent.

RR

Alaska bound in 58 days

Top
#11189 - 03/07/04 10:56 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: RangerRob]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
I'd like to get one or two tens, if i am up to it any more. Coex, Fat CIty, transcon or stirrup trouble. Maybe matinee in one pitch, thats not a hand climb...

But seeing as how i still havent had surgery on my wrist,
its probably more like,
maria, hawk, the aid trifecta in a day.

And seeing as how its about a day's travel to the gunks, its probably not going to be so incredibly productive...

I'd also dream of doing a V4. Any V4. hahahaha

Top
#11190 - 03/07/04 11:02 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: crackers]
Dominic Offline
journeyman

Registered: 11/01/01
Posts: 68
Loc: Troy NY
My whole goal for 04 needs to be accomplished in one day... one fell swoop!

So here goes:

First lead a 5.10 (retribution?) then boulder the Buddah with trad gear on! (managed to get up the black boulder this year wearing a rack!) then up to Twilight Zone 5.6 A2, then over to the nears for some quasi sport (Birdland) then finally set up a top-rope on To be or not to be 5.12 ish.

A truly Rennsaissaince day!

Seriously though... this year is going to be the year of 5.10, after last years high point of 5.9 and one 5.10, its off to the races this year

Top
#11191 - 03/11/04 11:29 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Dominic]
Anonymous
Unregistered


It seems there are a bunch of you out there looking at the 5.10's coming up on the horizon. Anyone has any suggestions of 10's that are 1) not the hardest 10's around, 2) has good gear, 3) (most importantly) easy to bail from without sacrificing tons of valuable gear?
I come to think of Simple Suff (where you can get to its bolt above the first pitch from a 5.3 on the right),
1st pitch of Wegetables (can scramble in/out from left), Mothers Day Party is easy to back off if you can't make the crux roof.
Is the approach to the crux hang on 'Hang Ten' in the Nears easily downclimbable?
Anyone else has good ideas out there?

Top
#11192 - 03/12/04 03:02 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List?
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

I come to think of Simple Suff (where you can get to its bolt above the first pitch from a 5.3 on the right),
1st pitch of Wegetables (can scramble in/out from left), Mothers Day Party is easy to back off if you can't make the crux roof.
Is the approach to the crux hang on 'Hang Ten' in the Nears easily downclimbable?
Anyone else has good ideas out there?





Mothers Day doesn't have great gear IMO.

Hang Ten is very down climbable (he says, from personal experience )

Also consider Criss Cross Direct, if the difficulty being so low doesn't bother you.

I know someone who's first 10 was The Dangler.

It's contrived, but Turdland Direct is a 10 variation (OK, it's 10+) but there's a bolt about 12 inches away from the move. I say contrived because this is really a better 5.9 route without the var'n than it is a 10 with it.

Lost City Crack is very G rated. But ya gotta be able to hand and finger jam. And ya gotta know where LC is.

Top
#11193 - 03/12/04 03:03 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List?
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
There's a list called "Breaking Into The Grade" elsewhere on this site.

Top
#11194 - 03/12/04 02:40 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Steven Cherry]
GeeVee Offline
Auto Reply

Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Just click on Climb at the top, then Route Suggestions then Breaking into the Grade.

Here's what's listed for 5.10...

Never Never Land (5.10-)
Although tricky, this route is well-protected. Good pro up to the crux move- then run-out, scary section above. The direct finish makes this the best face climb of its grade in the Gunks. - phlan

Hang Ten
The softest 5.10 in the gunks: easier than Criss Cross Direct, Never Never Land, Simple Suff, and Wegetables.… Some zig-zaggy face climbing through overlaps and a little work for solid tcu's puts you under a gimme reach-around hang whose crux is a straight-forward, low-angle mantle to gain the upper face...from there, fun, slabby face-climbing and a couple of short run-outs get you to the anchor... At a half-grade harder, it's a much friendlier crux than jean's...doubles advised... - yorick

Criss Cross Direct
CCD was my first 5.10 on lead. It has great pro and the crux is the first 15 feet or so with easier climbing above. - Johnnybfishman

Tulip Mussel Garden (5.10+)
Possibly the closest thing to an easy 10+ is the near's. Bouldery start (5.8+) and a thin, bulgey middle bring you to the business: a horizontal you can stuff to your heart's content before pulling a short, steep series of edges with very balancey foot-work to the last, reachy crimp beneath a shelf. You can decide there if you want to pro or just go for the big exiting mantle. - yorick

Frustration Syndrome (5.10+)
While many consider this to be a tough one, a solid 10- leader should feel well protected and safe throughout this climb. Opinion also differs as to whether the crux is in the beginning of the second half of the first (crux) pitch or at the end of the second half. Either way, it is a solid, well protected climb. It is also decently protected in its 11a variant, which provides a good feel as to the sustainability of a gunks 11. - crackers
_________________________
So long as you can boogie you ain't too old.

Top
#11195 - 03/12/04 04:04 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: GeeVee]
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
Thanks for posting this GeeVee, but of course (this is Gunks.com afer all) 2 of the 5 routes recommended are 5.10 +

Nothing like "breaking into the grade" on a 10 c/d.

How about Matinee, CoEx or Erect Direction for breaking into the grade then?

On a serious note (and not speaking from personal experience here, yet) but isn't Retribution right there with CCD, NNL, Wegetables, etc. as a good early 10 lead?
_________________________
"Flailing?" "Flail on!"

Top
#11196 - 03/12/04 04:24 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
GeeVee Offline
Auto Reply

Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Thanks for posting this GeeVee, but of course (this is Gunks.com afer all) 2 of the 5 routes recommended are 5.10 +

Hey, I'm just the frickin' messenger, trying to help out someone who apparently couldn't navigate the board.
_________________________
So long as you can boogie you ain't too old.

Top
#11197 - 03/12/04 06:25 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: GeeVee]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Man's Quest for Flight... the arete pitch.

Looks absolutely stunning...

it should be noted that some of the "easier" "break in" 5.10s can be just as scary or even more so as many of the harder 5.10's... a lot of veteran 5.10 or 5.11 climbers might steer clear of routes like Never Never Land ... it all comes down to personal preference in the end.

Climb what looks good and reasonable to you, and seems within your own ability on any given day. I've always been a bit leery of other peoples recommendations, take 'em with a healthy grain of salt...

You know what the BEST "break into the grade" 5.10 in the Gunks is? LeTeton. Don't be fooled by its 5.9+ grade... tee hee...
_________________________
Support Your Local Farmer!

Top
#11198 - 03/15/04 11:36 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: phlan]
Anonymous
Unregistered


So after reading up on the topic, here's THE beginner 5.10 list:
Dangler (if you're good on roofs, this might be a 9 as in the old
book), City Streets , Journey's End , Lady's Lament , Simple Suff,
Yesterday , Frustration Syndrome , Coprophagia , Thom's thumb right,
Wegetables , Hang Ten, Bonnies Direct (some call this a 9).
Each of these routes has a bail-out route very nearby, so you can easily
retrieve the gear you leave after rapping off a few feet below the crux.

And as phlan says: it's all personal preference wether you think a 10 is
10a, 10b, or 10c. Le Teton is just another regular 9 in my book.
Badfinger, Jean, and Commando Rave on the other hand ...

Top
#11199 - 03/16/04 03:13 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
Well, I just compiled the list, I didn't write the entries.

That said, the main qualities I had in mind for Breaking Into the Grade were, good gear, clean falls, and not sustained. Tulip Mussel Garden is a good example of all three. I'm not sure there's a second 5.10 move on it, the gear's at your waist when you make the 10+ move, and there's a decent stance before it as well.

The single crux move is hard, but overall, the route is probably easier to onsight than Simple Suff, for example (officially 5.10-).

Top
#11200 - 03/16/04 02:02 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Steven Cherry]
Anonymous
Unregistered


i would not reccomend tulip muscle garden. if you blow the crux you come awful close to the ledge below.

criss cross is a good climb to break into the grade

Top
#11201 - 10/05/04 01:15 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
So how is everyone doing on their ticklists for this season?

mine:
(X means i did it)

eowyn,
andrew,
jackie X
frog's head X
finger locks
shockley's X
madame G
laurel
classic?

i've done 1/3 of them. could be better, but i aint done yet!
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Top
#11202 - 10/05/04 09:51 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: empicard]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Quote:

So how is everyone doing on their ticklists for this season?




Climbed a bunch of stuff this season that I would have been scared to put on a ticklist before this season. Failed to onsight some stuff, too.

Top
#11203 - 10/06/04 01:42 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: empicard]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
My goal was to get on more hard (for me) routes, which I did. Last year I didn't even try a single 5.10, this year I tried five, getting three. None was an onsight, but two I'd never tried to lead before.

Here's the list, x=got it.

Sonya x
Nosedive x
Dat Mantel x
Feast of Fools (1 fall, then finished)
The Dangler (onsight attempt, only tried the one time)

I did onsight a couple of 9s, and got back to the Dacks a couple of times (last pitch of Overture--Wow!), which was also a goal, and I'm going to Seneca this weekend. I also met a couple of new climbing partners who I really like. So it's been a really good year.

Top
#11204 - 10/06/04 04:50 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: edk]
edk Offline
addict

Registered: 05/06/02
Posts: 441
Loc: allentown, NJ
OK here's mine

Quote:



TRAPPS
5.10s
Coexistence
The Winter
Matinee (mans gotta have dreams right!?) X onsite attepmt - first pitch clean, second 2 falls
Stirrup Trouble X TRed it after leading P38
Erect Direction
simple stuff X
Retribution X onsite attempt - not clean, but got it!
Nose Dive (gotta get it clean this year!) X got it clean
Yesterdays Lemonade (bouldered the start, looks good!)

Additionally:
Frustration syndrome X onsite
Feast of fools X onsite
Stannards roof X onsite
mothersday party X onsite


5.9s
Keep on Struttin’ X
W.A.S.P X onsite
Apoplexy (I have turne d this climb down more than any other, dont know why) X
Friends and Lovers X onsite
Pink Laurel (did a key hold down low break off??) X onsite


ADDITIONALLY:
Bonnies direct X onsite
Columbia X onsite
The Spring X onsite

5.8s
Hyjeks Horror X onsite
CCK (direct) X onsite (upper pitchs)
Ape Call X onsite


NEARS
5.10s
Fat City
Transcon ( I am more scared of this one now than ever!)
Elder Cleavage X onsite P2
Bird Cage
Criss Cross direct


Misc.
Cruise Control (millbrook)


ed





Plus a bunch of other worthy routes that I cant remember. Overall this year I feel pretty solid leading mid grade to hard 10's but I have established that my onsite limit is somewhere around .10b/c. A couple more sustained 10s and I will start thinking about an .11

Between the trip to Yosemite, The New and Daks trips I've felt I've become a better rounded climber and it feels pretty good to get solid in a grade I once thought was completely unattainable by me.

BUT - its the people I get to climb with more than the climbs and the numbers that really have made this season memorable. The belayer (to me) is the single most improtant ingredient in a hard onsite attempt.

ed

Top
#11205 - 10/08/04 11:52 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: edk]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Finally got to do the Original Route on Whiteside. I'm definitely planning to go back for Traditions.

Top
#11206 - 10/10/04 01:57 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Dana]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
Plus a bunch of other worthy routes that I cant remember. Overall this year I feel pretty solid leading mid grade to hard 10's but I have established that my onsite limit is somewhere around .10b/c. A couple more sustained 10s and I will start thinking about an .11

That's an awesome list of leads. My .02 FWIW -- there are a few 11s you could hit right now. But your idea of getting a few of the burly 10s under the belt is smart.

I'd highly recommend hitting Coex. If you can lead that without much trouble you are definitely ready for 11s. And there's a great 11 right nearby to jump on ... Graveyard Shift ... no real 11a move on it ... a 10b start to a 10c/d crux. Very protectable these days with Aliens and small tech friends.

If you're eager to stuff an 11 in your pocket right away, you can always nab On Any Monday pretty easily. There's also Comedy in Three Acts, The Stand and Golden Showers. All three are short, in the 11a/b range and have adequate gear. Heck, they're all close together so you can hit them in one day!

Another 11 possibility is Lanman 11a out at the AI wall at Bonticou. After bouldering an initial 10+ overhang there is plenty of excellent, bomber gear. Gunks face climbing at its best.

But dude ... you're now leading in the premier grade of the Gunks ... enjoy those mega-classics. IMO, Fat City Direct is the mother of all 5.10s, is darn close to 11a and is one of the very best routes in the country in that grade.

There's also a bunch of amazing 10s not on your tick list:

10,000 Restless Virgins 10d -- IMO this is a 3 star climb. Short, but an amazing crux.

Doublissima 10b/c -- maybe 10c just for the endurance factor.

Ridiculissima 10d -- steeper and more sustained!

Welcome to the Gunks -- the 9 face is not that scary and the rest of the climb is sweeeeeeeeeeet. For full effect you must do the 8 and 9 roofs after the second 10 overhang.

Birdie Party -- a sandbag, but so worth it.

Star Action -- a wee thin on the gear, but still very adequately protected. NOT 10+. More like very wild 10b. The moves are awesome.

Resistance 10c -- not anywhere as wild as Stannard's Roof, but a sweet line on beautiful rock.

Don't be too worried about Transcon. Just take the slab nice and deliberately (once you get the move, it's not bad) and then the crux is 10b and G. The exit move out of the corner onto the face is not that bad and you can plug in several pieces in the last horizontal before making the move.

... its the people I get to climb with more than the climbs and the numbers that really have made this season memorable. The belayer (to me) is the single most improtant ingredient in a hard onsite attempt.

My philosophy as well and so true. Finding the right partner is a huge part of what makes climbing great.

Top
#11207 - 10/11/04 10:11 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Quote:


If you're eager to stuff an 11 in your pocket right away, you can always nab On Any Monday pretty easily. There's also Comedy in Three Acts, The Stand and Golden Showers. All three are short, in the 11a/b range and have adequate gear. Heck, they're all close together so you can hit them in one day!

Another 11 possibility is Lanman 11a out at the AI wall at Bonticou. After bouldering an initial 10+ overhang there is plenty of excellent, bomber gear. Gunks face climbing at its best.




All good suggestions Lester, but you know the 11's to try that are as safe as can be are the Voids down in the Nears. On Any Monday is short polished climb hardly worth doing. Comedy is great, but not reccomended unless you are comfy falling on micro nuts. The Stand is safe, but a bit scary after the crux, and Golden Showers is hard.

Top
#11208 - 10/12/04 02:35 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Coppertone]
GymClimbingPoser Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/01
Posts: 285
Loc: Logan, UT
What a great thread - I get to boast and don't even feel bad about it! Yesterday I did Fat City Direct. I've been eyeing it for over a year but wanted to wait until I was good and ready. And ready I was, my partner and I both onsited the whole thing, with myself leading Pitches 2 and 3. THe middle pitch is devilishly tricking with two cruxes on top of one another, and the third pitch WOW! I was shaking off the belay, but once I got my head around it I had a great time. I don't know where to next... that was my tick list. I still have to do Matinee, and would like to get on Carbs and Caffeine, and the third pitch of Enduro Man, but for now I am SATISFIED.
Oh - and btw, after I got off FCD yesterday, I finished the hounds for a friend who thought he was on Baskerville Terrace until he got to the crux. I hadn't heard much about this climb but it is sweeeeeeeeet. The second pin seems rather laughable though. It's in good shape but it's hammered more or less upward into a flake, and when I rapped I had to give it a little wiggle just to see, and wiggle it did.
_________________________
GymClimbingPoser

Top
#11209 - 10/12/04 08:33 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Coppertone]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
the 11's to try that are as safe as can be are the Voids down in the Nears. On Any Monday is short polished climb hardly worth doing.

You gotta climb in Yosemite more before you call something like On Any Monday "polished."

Comedy is great, but not reccomended unless you are comfy falling on micro nuts.

The nut just below that hard-to-place micro is bomber. It will be a considerable fall if you blow at the top of the crux, but once you make the transition move, the holds are very positive.

The Stand is safe, but a bit scary after the crux


True, but not much climbing left after the crux.

Golden Showers is hard.

I think the hardest part is hanging out to get the gear in. The move itself is barely 11b.

The Voids are great. But you wanna recommend the right one ... one is 11a/b ... the other is 11c/d.

Actually, the best protected easy 11s are, alas, out at Skytop.

Top
#11210 - 10/12/04 08:36 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: GymClimbingPoser]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
Quote:

What a great thread - I get to boast and don't even feel bad about it! Yesterday I did Fat City Direct. I've been eyeing it for over a year but wanted to wait until I was good and ready. And ready I was, my partner and I both onsited the whole thing, with myself leading Pitches 2 and 3.




Congrats! Great lead.

But why on earth would you do Fat City Direct in *3* pitches?

Top
#11211 - 10/12/04 10:01 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
GymClimbingPoser Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/01
Posts: 285
Loc: Logan, UT
My partner wanted to lead pitch 1, and I didn't really want to link pitches 2 and 3.
And on another note, continueing from the fixed gear thread in General Climbing.... after doing hounds I left webbing and two rap rings on the three piton station (shared with baskerville terrace). I've never left gear before really. Anyone know if they're still there after Sunday? If somebody takes them there's going to be trouble.... you don't know the internet bitching I'm capable of.
_________________________
GymClimbingPoser

Top
#11212 - 10/12/04 10:40 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: GymClimbingPoser]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

after doing hounds I left webbing and two rap rings on the three piton station (shared with baskerville terrace). I've never left gear before really. Anyone know if they're still there after Sunday? If somebody takes them there's going to be trouble.... you don't know the internet bitching I'm capable of.




Well don't get too attached to it. There never was a "3 piton station" on Baskerville before this summer. The ledge 40-50 ft up takes great gear (if that's where it sprouted). Anchors which pop up like weeds are good candidates for removal. And no, I'm NOT saying I have any intentions of removing it!

IMO the optional belay out on the nose would be a good place for a fixed pin belay. I belay there but the gear is "challenging" and atypical.

Top
#11213 - 10/13/04 01:28 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Allenperry Offline
member

Registered: 02/11/03
Posts: 195
Loc: Reading, Pennsylvania
Quote:

I belay there but the gear is "challenging" and atypical.



That means a lot more than it says, coming from Mike. Translated another way: The rest of us gear-placing mortals don't stand a chance there

Perry
_________________________
Perry

Top
#11214 - 10/13/04 02:42 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
GeeVee Offline
Auto Reply

Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
I belay there but the gear is "challenging" and atypical.

Bear in mind too that much of Mike's gear is also not exactly "atypical."
_________________________
So long as you can boogie you ain't too old.

Top
#11215 - 10/13/04 11:25 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: GeeVee]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I started getting some 10's clean on lead this year. I had one from last year, that was Blarog. Actually two...the other was Criss Cross. I got Wegetables and Simple Suff this year, but the climbing season is just getting under way! I'm hoping to get on Falled on Account of Strain, Feast of Fools, Lost City Crack, Stannards, 10,000, Retribution, Nosedive, and maybe a few others. Now that the good climbing weather is here.......yippee!!

RR

Top
#11216 - 10/14/04 12:29 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: RangerRob]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
hey rob, ancient gunks tradition: can't start the 10s til you've dispatched those 5.9 grudges...
_________________________
Shongum ain\'t Indian,
it\'s Shawank-unk.

Top
#11217 - 10/14/04 04:37 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: yorick]
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
Now that the good climbing weather is here.......yippee!!

Totally agree - this is onsight weather, baby! The season is just getting started.

ancient gunks tradition: can't start the 10s til you've dispatched those 5.9 grudges...

Crap. Well, mebbe that explains my flail-fest on Retribution , I still need to go back and polish off (pun intended) The Spring.

I've made pretty good headway on my tick list, highlights include:

Onsights - Pink Laurel (yesterday ), Apoplexy, p1 Birdie Party, p3 Grand Central, Alphonse, Classy, Farewell to Arms, Shockley's (finally), p2&3 of Drunkards, and an unnamed 5.7 crack climb at PK

Leads - MF, Bonnie's Direct, Absurdland (again), p2 SoEO, Broken Sling (blew the onsite ), Hyjecks, Arrow (again), lotsa other stuff

Fun follows/TR's - Bonnie's Direct, The Spring, CCK Direct, Grand Central, Criss Cross Direct, Retribution, Manly Yes, The Winter, Mother's Day Party, Higher Stannard, Ape and Essence, To Be or Not To Be (everything but the crux slap ), Friends and Lovers, lotsa others

Topping my short list for the rest of this season are:
CCK Direct, The Spring, Le Teton, Double Crack in 1p, Retribution.
_________________________
"Flailing?" "Flail on!"

Top
#11218 - 10/14/04 10:20 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
To Be or Not To Be (everything but the crux slap

Did you get the crimpy crux at the top?

If you've climbed everything else, you'll soon get the whole thing.

Top
#11219 - 10/14/04 11:03 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

To Be or Not To Be (everything but the crux slap

Did you get the crimpy crux at the top?

If you've climbed everything else, you'll soon get the whole thing.




I think what Murph meant to say was, "Everything UP TO the crux slap".

Top
#11220 - 10/14/04 11:20 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Hey Yorick....LeTeton ain't no 5.9!!

RR

P.S. I got Retribution today too, just before the rain.

Top
#11221 - 10/15/04 04:38 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
LesterLeBlanc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1916
Loc: Los Angeles
Quote:

I think what Murph meant to say was, "Everything UP TO the crux slap".




Well then, after he nails that crux move, he only has another 40-50 feet of sustained 5.10-5.11 climbing.



FWIW - there's a way to do the lower crux move almost completely statically.

Top
#11222 - 10/15/04 05:16 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: RangerRob]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
Quote:

P.S. I got Retribution today too, just before the rain.





no, you styled retribution in the rain...a stellar lead!
_________________________
Shongum ain\'t Indian,
it\'s Shawank-unk.

Top
#11223 - 10/28/04 09:34 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: GOclimb]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Quote:

Shockley's without. Clothes, that is, not overhangs.

GO




I failed. Maybe next year.

GO

Top
#11224 - 10/29/04 11:42 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: RangerRob]
rackrat Offline
member

Registered: 12/20/02
Posts: 160
Loc: NYC - UWS
Ranger Rob,

Retribution is one heck of a lead in moist conditions... bravo.
_________________________
Trad is the only way to fly.

Top
#11225 - 11/02/04 06:41 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: rackrat]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2225
Loc: Gardiner, NY
I don't usually give myself a tick list or season goals, I just want to climb and enjoy myself at any grade...but something that I've considered for over 2 years now is whether I will ever get up the nerve to lead Modern Times. I've followed it OK, but that's one scarey lead - committing to the crux moves, and either finding the energy to put a piece in while traversing the overhangs or taking the risk to keep moving and not placing anything until the pumpy part is over. I'm an overcautious and wimpy leader - I don't like to do anything that will scare me too much.

Well, today just felt like a good day, and I led Modern Times! I'm so happy!

Jannette

Top
#11226 - 11/02/04 10:58 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: GOclimb]
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5979
Loc: 212 land
Quote:

Quote:

Shockley's without. Clothes, that is, not overhangs.

GO




I failed. Maybe next year.

GO


It has been done entirely au natural - no clothes whatsoever, no shoes, chalk or rope. Are you up for that?
_________________________

Top
#11227 - 11/02/04 04:12 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Jannette]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

Well, today just felt like a good day, and I led Modern Times! I'm so happy!




Congrats! Now if only someone would go up to the GT and cut down that little sapling so we can get better photos!
_________________________
- Marc

Top
#11228 - 11/02/04 05:55 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MarcC]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
jannette:

I too, had had a psychological barrier to leading MT for a while, stemming back to one of my first climbing experiences, when I stupidly, flailingly followed it! Last fall, I twice attempted to bag it, but got rained off! So, I finally led it a week and a half ago. I nearly came off when my foot slipped while trying to find a comfortable rest position from which to place the intermediate pro, but held on and regained my composure. An absolutely memorable lead. Would have had pics, but forgot to trail a second rope for my photographer! Oh well. Congrats!
_________________________
we're all living proof that nothing lasts

Top
#11229 - 11/02/04 06:31 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: nerdom]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2225
Loc: Gardiner, NY
nerdom writes:
trying to find a comfortable rest position from which to place the intermediate pro

Hah! "comfortable rest position"???? Hah! Don't think that really exists on that section of the climb. I planned to throw in a cam on the way, I had it slung and ready to go...but I just kept moving, in that 10 seconds that I stopped to consider placing it, I could feel the strength draining from my arms, and I decided to just keep moving, I knew I could do the moves if I didn't burn out first. Congrats on your lead of MT as well!

Just to make it more memorable, we had a cam stuck, so after we were done, we rapped back down to the GT ledge, and Ethan led the crux pitch so I could follow it and get my smaller hands into the crack to free my alien. So we did Modern Times twice in a row, and finished it off with the top of High E while we were in the neighborhood. I'm one sore puppy today! But it was a gorgeous day and well worth taking a vacation day off from work!

Jannette

Top
#11230 - 11/02/04 07:57 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Jannette]
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
Les and Jannette - nice work!

Near-dumb - there IS no comfy position to place the gear, which is why on my hubristic attempt back in the day, I chose not to bother, kept climbing, and took the big ride because of it. Wheeee!

Cliffmama - time to change yer profile, I'd say yer trad lead limit is a tad higher than 7+ now, eh? "if not too pumpy" - as if.
I guess if it was worth doing, it was worth doing it twice.

I've still gotta get back there and tick that one off. I've since followed it, but haven't had the chance to lead it again.... so many routes, so little time.
(I got CCK Direct last week; so now The Spring, Le Teton, and Retribution are topping my current to do list - mebbe I should add MT as well? )

edited again to add: knocked The Spring off today, and WASP also for good measure.
And as a bonus, got The Winter clean on TR - sweet.


Edited by MurphysLaw (11/04/04 01:38 AM)
_________________________
"Flailing?" "Flail on!"

Top
#11231 - 11/02/04 08:56 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
Actually, there IS a comfy rest spot!! You get an almost knee-bar, with your entire left arm draped over the big block below the crack that accepts your pro (I got a solid .75 cam in low). The scared shitless part for me was the exit move, mantling up onto the ledge!
_________________________
we're all living proof that nothing lasts

Top
#11232 - 11/08/04 03:52 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Funny how goals morph .... looking back at mine, the only one I got close to was Double Crack, which I climbed on a day when I should have stayed in bed - it totally kicked my a**.

But, my season goal eventually revealed itself to be Absurdland, which I finally led this past Saturday. Yay!

Top
Page 1 of 6 1 2 3 4 5 6 >


Moderator:  Mike Rawdon, Steven Cherry 
Sponsored