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#11187 - 03/05/04 09:26 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: JoeKayak]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
following horseman freaked me out, but i suppose i should give that one a burn as well.
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#11188 - 03/06/04 02:09 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: empicard]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I need to get all the tens I have tried before clean. That would include:
Lost City Crack
Retribution
Simple Suff
Wegetables
P-38
Wishbone

Other than that my goal is to just climb and have fun. Whether that is on a dirty 5.2 or super classic 5.10 is irrelevent.

RR

Alaska bound in 58 days

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#11189 - 03/07/04 10:56 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: RangerRob]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
I'd like to get one or two tens, if i am up to it any more. Coex, Fat CIty, transcon or stirrup trouble. Maybe matinee in one pitch, thats not a hand climb...

But seeing as how i still havent had surgery on my wrist,
its probably more like,
maria, hawk, the aid trifecta in a day.

And seeing as how its about a day's travel to the gunks, its probably not going to be so incredibly productive...

I'd also dream of doing a V4. Any V4. hahahaha

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#11190 - 03/07/04 11:02 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: crackers]
Dominic Offline
journeyman

Registered: 11/01/01
Posts: 68
Loc: Troy NY
My whole goal for 04 needs to be accomplished in one day... one fell swoop!

So here goes:

First lead a 5.10 (retribution?) then boulder the Buddah with trad gear on! (managed to get up the black boulder this year wearing a rack!) then up to Twilight Zone 5.6 A2, then over to the nears for some quasi sport (Birdland) then finally set up a top-rope on To be or not to be 5.12 ish.

A truly Rennsaissaince day!

Seriously though... this year is going to be the year of 5.10, after last years high point of 5.9 and one 5.10, its off to the races this year

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#11191 - 03/11/04 11:29 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Dominic]
Anonymous
Unregistered


It seems there are a bunch of you out there looking at the 5.10's coming up on the horizon. Anyone has any suggestions of 10's that are 1) not the hardest 10's around, 2) has good gear, 3) (most importantly) easy to bail from without sacrificing tons of valuable gear?
I come to think of Simple Suff (where you can get to its bolt above the first pitch from a 5.3 on the right),
1st pitch of Wegetables (can scramble in/out from left), Mothers Day Party is easy to back off if you can't make the crux roof.
Is the approach to the crux hang on 'Hang Ten' in the Nears easily downclimbable?
Anyone else has good ideas out there?

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#11192 - 03/12/04 03:02 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List?
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

I come to think of Simple Suff (where you can get to its bolt above the first pitch from a 5.3 on the right),
1st pitch of Wegetables (can scramble in/out from left), Mothers Day Party is easy to back off if you can't make the crux roof.
Is the approach to the crux hang on 'Hang Ten' in the Nears easily downclimbable?
Anyone else has good ideas out there?





Mothers Day doesn't have great gear IMO.

Hang Ten is very down climbable (he says, from personal experience )

Also consider Criss Cross Direct, if the difficulty being so low doesn't bother you.

I know someone who's first 10 was The Dangler.

It's contrived, but Turdland Direct is a 10 variation (OK, it's 10+) but there's a bolt about 12 inches away from the move. I say contrived because this is really a better 5.9 route without the var'n than it is a 10 with it.

Lost City Crack is very G rated. But ya gotta be able to hand and finger jam. And ya gotta know where LC is.

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#11193 - 03/12/04 03:03 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List?
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
There's a list called "Breaking Into The Grade" elsewhere on this site.

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#11194 - 03/12/04 02:40 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Steven Cherry]
GeeVee Offline
Auto Reply

Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Just click on Climb at the top, then Route Suggestions then Breaking into the Grade.

Here's what's listed for 5.10...

Never Never Land (5.10-)
Although tricky, this route is well-protected. Good pro up to the crux move- then run-out, scary section above. The direct finish makes this the best face climb of its grade in the Gunks. - phlan

Hang Ten
The softest 5.10 in the gunks: easier than Criss Cross Direct, Never Never Land, Simple Suff, and Wegetables.… Some zig-zaggy face climbing through overlaps and a little work for solid tcu's puts you under a gimme reach-around hang whose crux is a straight-forward, low-angle mantle to gain the upper face...from there, fun, slabby face-climbing and a couple of short run-outs get you to the anchor... At a half-grade harder, it's a much friendlier crux than jean's...doubles advised... - yorick

Criss Cross Direct
CCD was my first 5.10 on lead. It has great pro and the crux is the first 15 feet or so with easier climbing above. - Johnnybfishman

Tulip Mussel Garden (5.10+)
Possibly the closest thing to an easy 10+ is the near's. Bouldery start (5.8+) and a thin, bulgey middle bring you to the business: a horizontal you can stuff to your heart's content before pulling a short, steep series of edges with very balancey foot-work to the last, reachy crimp beneath a shelf. You can decide there if you want to pro or just go for the big exiting mantle. - yorick

Frustration Syndrome (5.10+)
While many consider this to be a tough one, a solid 10- leader should feel well protected and safe throughout this climb. Opinion also differs as to whether the crux is in the beginning of the second half of the first (crux) pitch or at the end of the second half. Either way, it is a solid, well protected climb. It is also decently protected in its 11a variant, which provides a good feel as to the sustainability of a gunks 11. - crackers
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#11195 - 03/12/04 04:04 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: GeeVee]
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
Thanks for posting this GeeVee, but of course (this is Gunks.com afer all) 2 of the 5 routes recommended are 5.10 +

Nothing like "breaking into the grade" on a 10 c/d.

How about Matinee, CoEx or Erect Direction for breaking into the grade then?

On a serious note (and not speaking from personal experience here, yet) but isn't Retribution right there with CCD, NNL, Wegetables, etc. as a good early 10 lead?
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#11196 - 03/12/04 04:24 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: MurphysLaw]
GeeVee Offline
Auto Reply

Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Thanks for posting this GeeVee, but of course (this is Gunks.com afer all) 2 of the 5 routes recommended are 5.10 +

Hey, I'm just the frickin' messenger, trying to help out someone who apparently couldn't navigate the board.
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