Man's Quest for Flight... the arete pitch.

Looks absolutely stunning...

it should be noted that some of the "easier" "break in" 5.10s can be just as scary or even more so as many of the harder 5.10's... a lot of veteran 5.10 or 5.11 climbers might steer clear of routes like Never Never Land ... it all comes down to personal preference in the end.

Climb what looks good and reasonable to you, and seems within your own ability on any given day. I've always been a bit leery of other peoples recommendations, take 'em with a healthy grain of salt...

You know what the BEST "break into the grade" 5.10 in the Gunks is? LeTeton. Don't be fooled by its 5.9+ grade... tee hee...

So after reading up on the topic, here's THE beginner 5.10 list:
Dangler (if you're good on roofs, this might be a 9 as in the old
book), City Streets , Journey's End , Lady's Lament , Simple Suff,
Yesterday , Frustration Syndrome , Coprophagia , Thom's thumb right,
Wegetables , Hang Ten, Bonnies Direct (some call this a 9).
Each of these routes has a bail-out route very nearby, so you can easily
retrieve the gear you leave after rapping off a few feet below the crux.

And as phlan says: it's all personal preference wether you think a 10 is
10a, 10b, or 10c. Le Teton is just another regular 9 in my book.
Badfinger, Jean, and Commando Rave on the other hand ...

Well, I just compiled the list, I didn't write the entries.

That said, the main qualities I had in mind for Breaking Into the Grade were, good gear, clean falls, and not sustained. Tulip Mussel Garden is a good example of all three. I'm not sure there's a second 5.10 move on it, the gear's at your waist when you make the 10+ move, and there's a decent stance before it as well.

The single crux move is hard, but overall, the route is probably easier to onsight than Simple Suff, for example (officially 5.10-).

i would not reccomend tulip muscle garden. if you blow the crux you come awful close to the ledge below.

criss cross is a good climb to break into the grade

So how is everyone doing on their ticklists for this season?

mine:
(X means i did it)

eowyn,
andrew,
jackie X
frog's head X
finger locks
shockley's X
madame G
laurel
classic?

i've done 1/3 of them. could be better, but i aint done yet!

My goal was to get on more hard (for me) routes, which I did. Last year I didn't even try a single 5.10, this year I tried five, getting three. None was an onsight, but two I'd never tried to lead before.

Here's the list, x=got it.

Sonya x
Nosedive x
Dat Mantel x
Feast of Fools (1 fall, then finished)
The Dangler (onsight attempt, only tried the one time)

I did onsight a couple of 9s, and got back to the Dacks a couple of times (last pitch of Overture--Wow!), which was also a goal, and I'm going to Seneca this weekend. I also met a couple of new climbing partners who I really like. So it's been a really good year.

OK here's mine

Quote:

---

TRAPPS
5.10s
Coexistence
The Winter
Matinee (mans gotta have dreams right!?) X onsite attepmt - first pitch clean, second 2 falls
Stirrup Trouble X TRed it after leading P38
Erect Direction
simple stuff X
Retribution X onsite attempt - not clean, but got it!
Nose Dive (gotta get it clean this year!) X got it clean
Yesterdays Lemonade (bouldered the start, looks good!)

Additionally:
Frustration syndrome X onsite
Feast of fools X onsite
Stannards roof X onsite
mothersday party X onsite


5.9s
Keep on Struttin’ X
W.A.S.P X onsite
Apoplexy (I have turne d this climb down more than any other, dont know why) X
Friends and Lovers X onsite
Pink Laurel (did a key hold down low break off??) X onsite


ADDITIONALLY:
Bonnies direct X onsite
Columbia X onsite
The Spring X onsite

5.8s
Hyjeks Horror X onsite
CCK (direct) X onsite (upper pitchs)
Ape Call X onsite


NEARS
5.10s
Fat City
Transcon ( I am more scared of this one now than ever!)
Elder Cleavage X onsite P2
Bird Cage
Criss Cross direct


Misc.
Cruise Control (millbrook)


ed

---

Plus a bunch of other worthy routes that I cant remember. Overall this year I feel pretty solid leading mid grade to hard 10's but I have established that my onsite limit is somewhere around .10b/c. A couple more sustained 10s and I will start thinking about an .11

Between the trip to Yosemite, The New and Daks trips I've felt I've become a better rounded climber and it feels pretty good to get solid in a grade I once thought was completely unattainable by me.

BUT - its the people I get to climb with more than the climbs and the numbers that really have made this season memorable. The belayer (to me) is the single most improtant ingredient in a hard onsite attempt.

ed

Finally got to do the Original Route on Whiteside. I'm definitely planning to go back for Traditions.

Plus a bunch of other worthy routes that I cant remember. Overall this year I feel pretty solid leading mid grade to hard 10's but I have established that my onsite limit is somewhere around .10b/c. A couple more sustained 10s and I will start thinking about an .11

That's an awesome list of leads. My .02 FWIW -- there are a few 11s you could hit right now. But your idea of getting a few of the burly 10s under the belt is smart.

I'd highly recommend hitting Coex. If you can lead that without much trouble you are definitely ready for 11s. And there's a great 11 right nearby to jump on ... Graveyard Shift ... no real 11a move on it ... a 10b start to a 10c/d crux. Very protectable these days with Aliens and small tech friends.

If you're eager to stuff an 11 in your pocket right away, you can always nab On Any Monday pretty easily. There's also Comedy in Three Acts, The Stand and Golden Showers. All three are short, in the 11a/b range and have adequate gear. Heck, they're all close together so you can hit them in one day!

Another 11 possibility is Lanman 11a out at the AI wall at Bonticou. After bouldering an initial 10+ overhang there is plenty of excellent, bomber gear. Gunks face climbing at its best.

But dude ... you're now leading in the premier grade of the Gunks ... enjoy those mega-classics. IMO, Fat City Direct is the mother of all 5.10s, is darn close to 11a and is one of the very best routes in the country in that grade.

There's also a bunch of amazing 10s not on your tick list:

10,000 Restless Virgins 10d -- IMO this is a 3 star climb. Short, but an amazing crux.

Doublissima 10b/c -- maybe 10c just for the endurance factor.

Ridiculissima 10d -- steeper and more sustained!

Welcome to the Gunks -- the 9 face is not that scary and the rest of the climb is sweeeeeeeeeeet. For full effect you must do the 8 and 9 roofs after the second 10 overhang.

Birdie Party -- a sandbag, but so worth it.

Star Action -- a wee thin on the gear, but still very adequately protected. NOT 10+. More like very wild 10b. The moves are awesome.

Resistance 10c -- not anywhere as wild as Stannard's Roof, but a sweet line on beautiful rock.

Don't be too worried about Transcon. Just take the slab nice and deliberately (once you get the move, it's not bad) and then the crux is 10b and G. The exit move out of the corner onto the face is not that bad and you can plug in several pieces in the last horizontal before making the move.

... its the people I get to climb with more than the climbs and the numbers that really have made this season memorable. The belayer (to me) is the single most improtant ingredient in a hard onsite attempt.

My philosophy as well and so true. Finding the right partner is a huge part of what makes climbing great.