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#11207 - 10/11/04 10:11 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Quote:


If you're eager to stuff an 11 in your pocket right away, you can always nab On Any Monday pretty easily. There's also Comedy in Three Acts, The Stand and Golden Showers. All three are short, in the 11a/b range and have adequate gear. Heck, they're all close together so you can hit them in one day!

Another 11 possibility is Lanman 11a out at the AI wall at Bonticou. After bouldering an initial 10+ overhang there is plenty of excellent, bomber gear. Gunks face climbing at its best.




All good suggestions Lester, but you know the 11's to try that are as safe as can be are the Voids down in the Nears. On Any Monday is short polished climb hardly worth doing. Comedy is great, but not reccomended unless you are comfy falling on micro nuts. The Stand is safe, but a bit scary after the crux, and Golden Showers is hard.

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#11208 - 10/12/04 02:35 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Coppertone]
GymClimbingPoser Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/01
Posts: 285
Loc: Logan, UT
What a great thread - I get to boast and don't even feel bad about it! Yesterday I did Fat City Direct. I've been eyeing it for over a year but wanted to wait until I was good and ready. And ready I was, my partner and I both onsited the whole thing, with myself leading Pitches 2 and 3. THe middle pitch is devilishly tricking with two cruxes on top of one another, and the third pitch WOW! I was shaking off the belay, but once I got my head around it I had a great time. I don't know where to next... that was my tick list. I still have to do Matinee, and would like to get on Carbs and Caffeine, and the third pitch of Enduro Man, but for now I am SATISFIED.
Oh - and btw, after I got off FCD yesterday, I finished the hounds for a friend who thought he was on Baskerville Terrace until he got to the crux. I hadn't heard much about this climb but it is sweeeeeeeeet. The second pin seems rather laughable though. It's in good shape but it's hammered more or less upward into a flake, and when I rapped I had to give it a little wiggle just to see, and wiggle it did.
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#11209 - 10/12/04 08:33 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Coppertone]
LesterLeBlanc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1917
Loc: Los Angeles
the 11's to try that are as safe as can be are the Voids down in the Nears. On Any Monday is short polished climb hardly worth doing.

You gotta climb in Yosemite more before you call something like On Any Monday "polished."

Comedy is great, but not reccomended unless you are comfy falling on micro nuts.

The nut just below that hard-to-place micro is bomber. It will be a considerable fall if you blow at the top of the crux, but once you make the transition move, the holds are very positive.

The Stand is safe, but a bit scary after the crux


True, but not much climbing left after the crux.

Golden Showers is hard.

I think the hardest part is hanging out to get the gear in. The move itself is barely 11b.

The Voids are great. But you wanna recommend the right one ... one is 11a/b ... the other is 11c/d.

Actually, the best protected easy 11s are, alas, out at Skytop.

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#11210 - 10/12/04 08:36 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: GymClimbingPoser]
LesterLeBlanc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/06/02
Posts: 1917
Loc: Los Angeles
Quote:

What a great thread - I get to boast and don't even feel bad about it! Yesterday I did Fat City Direct. I've been eyeing it for over a year but wanted to wait until I was good and ready. And ready I was, my partner and I both onsited the whole thing, with myself leading Pitches 2 and 3.




Congrats! Great lead.

But why on earth would you do Fat City Direct in *3* pitches?

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#11211 - 10/12/04 10:01 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: LesterLeBlanc]
GymClimbingPoser Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/01
Posts: 285
Loc: Logan, UT
My partner wanted to lead pitch 1, and I didn't really want to link pitches 2 and 3.
And on another note, continueing from the fixed gear thread in General Climbing.... after doing hounds I left webbing and two rap rings on the three piton station (shared with baskerville terrace). I've never left gear before really. Anyone know if they're still there after Sunday? If somebody takes them there's going to be trouble.... you don't know the internet bitching I'm capable of.
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#11212 - 10/12/04 10:40 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: GymClimbingPoser]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Quote:

after doing hounds I left webbing and two rap rings on the three piton station (shared with baskerville terrace). I've never left gear before really. Anyone know if they're still there after Sunday? If somebody takes them there's going to be trouble.... you don't know the internet bitching I'm capable of.




Well don't get too attached to it. There never was a "3 piton station" on Baskerville before this summer. The ledge 40-50 ft up takes great gear (if that's where it sprouted). Anchors which pop up like weeds are good candidates for removal. And no, I'm NOT saying I have any intentions of removing it!

IMO the optional belay out on the nose would be a good place for a fixed pin belay. I belay there but the gear is "challenging" and atypical.

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#11213 - 10/13/04 01:28 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Allenperry Offline
member

Registered: 02/11/03
Posts: 195
Loc: Reading, Pennsylvania
Quote:

I belay there but the gear is "challenging" and atypical.



That means a lot more than it says, coming from Mike. Translated another way: The rest of us gear-placing mortals don't stand a chance there

Perry
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#11214 - 10/13/04 02:42 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
GeeVee Offline
Auto Reply

Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
I belay there but the gear is "challenging" and atypical.

Bear in mind too that much of Mike's gear is also not exactly "atypical."
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#11215 - 10/13/04 11:25 PM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: GeeVee]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I started getting some 10's clean on lead this year. I had one from last year, that was Blarog. Actually two...the other was Criss Cross. I got Wegetables and Simple Suff this year, but the climbing season is just getting under way! I'm hoping to get on Falled on Account of Strain, Feast of Fools, Lost City Crack, Stannards, 10,000, Retribution, Nosedive, and maybe a few others. Now that the good climbing weather is here.......yippee!!

RR

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#11216 - 10/14/04 12:29 AM Re: 2004 Gunks Tick List? [Re: RangerRob]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: hamlet\'s hand
hey rob, ancient gunks tradition: can't start the 10s til you've dispatched those 5.9 grudges...
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it\'s Shawank-unk.

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