Anyone been there in the last 12 months? Need beta. PM me.

Thanks.

What kind of beta, routes, conditions, lodging......

It's a slog.... with tons of great descent options.

I climbed the Cassoval Ridge (3/4) then traversed to the West Face and pushed from there. Give yourself 10 hours from camp to summitt, and try to get there at noon (assuming you're looking at a spring-time attempt.)

The West-Face corns up beautifully with about 45 minutes of sun.

I would highly discourage doing the standard, Avalanch Gully route... tons of gumbies, and it will be totally tracked up by 11AM. However, we did see some sick chutes, skier's-right of the main gully route that empty into it. If you time it just right, these lines would be worth the crowd you will encounter at their exits.

I'll be heading up there in May a few times to get these chutes, ride the West face again, and check out Shastina. I'll also be looking for more technical, glaciated routes on the North face.

Zach


oh, yeah.... I assumed you mean to ski or snow-board the descent.... it's the only way. don't bother, if your plan is to down-climb. It would be a total waste

My suggestion which I had submitted in a PM (but for the benefit for anyone else)is for late season routes is the Hotlum glacier region on the north side, or if you are looking for a technical route period, go to the northside. The Avalanche Gulley route is definately an overcrowded slog and after June or July depending on the year is just a talus slog. If you want to snowboard or ski it hit it early since the suncups can be severe.

The question was then asked about how long to expect to take, and the answer is; it depends....

Most people take two days. Myself, I took a pair of crampons, ice axe, goretex jacket, mittens and a hat, with a quart of water and a powerbar, and reached the summit from my car in about 4.5 hours (and wasn't really pushing that hard but had to make it back for a dinner date in the Bay Area).

Chas,
You're killin me... 4.5 hours

That's awesome.... Are you headin up there this year? We're planing to work a couple of different routes, probably in the late April - May time frame.

Team of 2, splitboards.

Zach