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#11311 - 03/16/04 02:27 AM Betty p2
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
Just wanted to clarify where p2 of Betty really goes, once and for all....

(and to humor MarcC )

According to Black Dick, ya go up the first chimney to start p2 (which is actually quite easy if you think like an old time First Ascentionist - what would Betty do? ), and end up on a ledge with another ledge at about chest height.
At which point you are met w/ the following choices:

You can
A: traverse left, then up
B: go straight up and follow the nice open book, or
C: go a bit right to the other chimney (formed by a huge distinctive orange flake) and go up the left face of that.

I have done all 3, and "all roads lead to Rome" at relatively the same level of 'difficulty' , but it seems like a lot of parties (including the one I saw on it today) choose B: to go up the open book, when according to Black Dick (dunno if the Select or Swain say anything different) option A is a variation, and option C is the correct p2.

Option B happens to lead one directly to the belay/rap tree at the top, maybe that is why it seems to be the popular option these days?

Oh, and I want move by move beta for this route too, thx.
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#11312 - 03/16/04 03:15 AM Re: Betty p2 [Re: MurphysLaw]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
*chuckle* my new-to-trad buddy surprised me by muscling up the OUTSIDE front of the FIRST chimney flake, which is a slightly overhung 5.4-5.5-ish thing. Fun moves.

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#11313 - 03/18/04 06:20 PM Re: Betty p2 [Re: MurphysLaw]
edthomas Offline
member

Registered: 01/08/02
Posts: 125
Loc: Albany

"I have done all 3, and "all roads lead to Rome" at relatively the same level of 'difficulty' , but it seems like a lot of parties (including the one I saw on it today) choose B: to go up the open book, when according to Black Dick (dunno if the Select or Swain say anything different) option A is a variation, and option C is the correct p2. "



I met Willie Crowther on the P1 belay a couple of seasons ago ( he was
bringing up his partner with a hip belay!) and he said he always did option C.

(Even though I prefer other variations, I imagine Crowther was sticking with the original
line.)

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