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#11327 - 03/16/04 04:07 PM Kansas City Aid?
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2939
Loc: LI, NY
from ghiz.org:
Scott Ghiz rope-soloed this climb 11/29/97. This is the first huge roof you run into while walking into the Near Trapps. Free climb up to the optional belay under the roof (5.4). Aid out the roof (C1) to a free move past the lip (5.8). P1: 130' to anchor tree.

Gear: Medium nuts, medium cams and a #3 Camalot.

when people rope solo this, does everyone just free solo the 5.4 start? which is the #3 camalot? grey? (im not at home). what about the finish, 5.8, right? i dont lead 5.8 yet. can that be aided? it looks like a crack in that petzl video.
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#11328 - 03/16/04 04:28 PM Re: Kansas City Aid? [Re: empicard]
Rosceaux Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/28/00
Posts: 86

I've aid soloed it a few times. Its easy 5.4 (i.e. not Gelsa 5.4) up to the slings, and I didn't think it was that big of a deal. The #3 Cam is the blue one. I think that it can be used as a first piece before reaching the slings. Most people use a clove hitch, so that it is possible to "belay" onesself before the aiding starts. Pulling the final roof is 7/8ish. It can be aided easily enough. I may have used a tricam and a nut to get through it my first time.

Good luck

Mike Donnelly

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#11329 - 03/16/04 05:23 PM Re: Kansas City Aid? [Re: Rosceaux]
andrew Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
its easy 5.4, but i still rope solo the free climbing. you get big stances so it is pretty easy to free even on a clove hitch system. falling from the free climbing would kill you if you are soloing. i also aided through the 5.8 part at the top - no problem. its a great solo. have fun.
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#11330 - 03/16/04 06:00 PM Re: Kansas City Aid? [Re: andrew]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2939
Loc: LI, NY
we wouldnt be soloing, i'd be on standard belay.
i think we've decided for nosedive and ant's line for saturday, if the rock is too wet for trad.
we'll save gigundo roofs for another time, after more experience.
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