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#1139 - 11/15/00 01:45 PM Holidays in Austin, Tx
ryanclan Offline
addict

Registered: 01/09/00
Posts: 578
Loc: NoCal
Hey all --

I just finished searching for beta on the Austin area sport climbing and ran into the bouldering site for the area. After perusing their message board, I ran (not walked) back to our board.....great to be here (ahhh....taking off tight ankle support and sipping tea).

Anyway, I'm doing the family duty over Christmas and will need climbing escapes. Austin's close, but I need a tick list for sport climbs and bouldering areas. I have a limestone guide for bouldering & sport stuff, but tell me, tell me...where to go first? I'll have about 3 days if I'm lucky (and can get a [safe] partner).

Any suggestions???????

ryanclan <---can't wait to get back to climbing after 3wks forced rest!!!

"If I owned Hell and Texas, I'd rent out Tx. and live in hell!" (unknown source)

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#1140 - 11/15/00 04:10 PM Re: Holidays in Austin, Tx [Re: ryanclan]
Rosceaux Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/28/00
Posts: 86
Looks like you'd better rent out Hell and at least sublet back in Texas for a bit.

I climbed down there while on a short vacation a couple of years back. There is a guidebook to the greater Austion Area called "Central Texas Limestone." There are a lot of short, bolted cliffs with easy access right off the highway system. Can't recall their names, but some of the routes were interesting. As I recall the climbs were much much easier than their grades would suggest (though I'm sure many fiascoes have ocurred right after such advice). There is a place called Rhymer's Climbers Ranch on the outskirts of town. Short, bolted limestone walls. Some very interesting routes to be had. They charge a nominal admission fee to climb there. Mostly facey climbs on moderately overhanging natural terrain. Enchanted Rock (state park) is also close, though I hadn't climbed there. I was down around new year's and was surprised at how cold it was. Enchanted, by the way, is mostly trad, while all other areas are sport.

If you'd like, I can search around to see if my friend or I still have the guidebook.

Be safe and have fun,

-Mike


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#1141 - 11/15/00 04:45 PM Re: Holidays in Austin, Tx [Re: Rosceaux]
Josh Offline
member

Registered: 12/28/99
Posts: 109
Loc: Central PA for now...
Drive down to Potrero!!!


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#1142 - 11/15/00 05:09 PM Re: Holidays in Austin, Tx [Re: Josh]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Since when is Austin in Texas?? I thought he was in college in Conneticut?? (wink, wink)

RangerRob


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#1143 - 11/15/00 05:55 PM Re: Holidays in Austin, Tx [Re: Josh]
ryanclan Offline
addict

Registered: 01/09/00
Posts: 578
Loc: NoCal
hahahaha -- for Rob.

Oh, Josh, that was my plan, but alas -- no partner this season and an unexpected [mandatory] family gathering. So Portrero will wait until Spring Break (in April) or next year.

ry

"If I owned Hell and Texas, I'd rent out Tx. and live in hell!" (unknown source)

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#1144 - 11/16/00 02:19 PM Re: Holidays in Austin, Tx [Re: ryanclan]
Lisa Offline
member

Registered: 12/29/99
Posts: 143
Hi Ryanclan,

I actually did a bunch of research on Austin cuz I thought I might have to move there. I have a couple of Texas climbing books that you are welcome to borrow--just send me a message. The sport climbing and bouldering is in a park within Austin itself, and I would start there before going to Enchanted Rock or Remier's Ranch, the former of which is about 1 1/2 hours away. To see more info on these areas, go to:

http://www.explore.com/climbing/index.cfm
http://www.texasmountaineers.org/tm/climbing_areas.htm

There is also an old Rock & Ice (or CLimbing) article on the Austin climbing. I still have it if you want to borrow it.

Lisa


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#1145 - 11/17/00 09:42 PM Re: Holidays in Austin, Tx [Re: Lisa]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Lisa--

Do you have a copy of the Dome Driver's Manual for Enchanted Rock? If so, how could I get in touch
with you so that I might be able to take a look at it?

Thanks,
Chris


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#1146 - 11/21/00 03:47 PM Re: Holidays in Austin, Tx [Re: ryanclan]
Anonymous
Unregistered


K, you devil, you should give me a call if you want lots of Austin beta (probably too much)...

1) Reimer's Ranch is definitely the place to go if you have time. It's about 45 min-1 hour from town depending on how fast you drive. They're closed certain days of the week (Mon-Wed. last time I was there), and charge $3, but it's well worth it-- without exagerration, I can say this is one of the top-5 limestone sport crags in the U.S. Especially in the .10-.12 range, there's enough to keep you busy for a long time. Check out Central Texas Limestone II for more info, and as for my personal tick list: 8 Flake (.8); Prototype (.10), Sangre de Muertos, Spidergrind, Crankenstein (all .11's), Stranglehold, Raindance, Body Wax, Liposuction (all .12's).... there's enough 8's and 9's at the Dead Cats wall to keep you busy for a while, too. And of course, like any sport area, these grades are significantly softer than the Gunks (or most other trad areas).

2) If you don't have time for Reimer's, check out New Wall/ Great Wall or the Seismic Wall in the Barton Creek Greenbelt. There's tons of good .10-.12's here, albeit not quite the same quality as Reimer's. Great training nonetheless. Seismic Wall as a lot more easy stuff. If you go to New Wall check out Meet the Flintstones (5.9), Hysteria (.11a), the two .10's on the far right, and Tunnel Vision (one of the best .12a's anywhere).

3) As for bouldering, McKinney Falls State Park is very good and right in town (see map). Access can be sketchy, however, but there's some of the best pockets you'll ever pull on. Not in the guidebook... but you'll find the wall if you park in the far right lot and hike toward the creek, left of the waterfall. Belton Areas (see guidebook or Jeff Jackson's recent Climbing article) are also good (about an hour north of town), but after bouldering Lincoln Woods, Hueco, etc.... well, the sport in Austin is probably a better bet.

4) Don't waste your time driving to Enchanted Rock unless you've got a hankering for granite slab or short, brutal jam cracks. The slabs are excellent, but I think you'll be disappointed overall with this trad area after climbing the Gunks for so long... it's an amazingly scenic area, though, and worth checking out just for that.... these huge pink granite domes rising out of the Texas pancake just like two... well, I'll let you use your imagination here.

Hope this helps somewhat... enjoy their wimpy winter while you're there (how I miss it by January or so).





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#1147 - 11/23/00 05:11 AM Re: Holidays in Austin, Tx
ryanclan Offline
addict

Registered: 01/09/00
Posts: 578
Loc: NoCal
Holy Sh*t....I totally forgot that you're a fellow Texan. Let's talk more beta later on. I've got the Limestone guidebook....also, do you have friends still down there? I need a partner.

Ciao,
kdh

"If I owned Hell and Texas, I'd rent out Tx. and live in hell!" (unknown source)

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