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#11591 - 04/21/04 05:05 PM 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
I'm looking fer some suggestions (yes, I'm fully aware of and have already printed the TR suggestions section in the Routes area) for things that are fun, easy to set up TR-solo routes - BUT - are not ones that somebody would likely say afterwards "I wish I'd saved that one to lead".

Examples of what I'm looking for are things like: Squiggles Direct, Phoebe, Charie, Delusions of Grandeur, etc.
edited to add - if it's R or X rated, I'll never wanna lead it

Examples of routes I'd like to "save" to give a solid crack at leading (someday) first are:
Retribution/Nosedive, Apoplexy, P38, etc.

Classic lead/TR combos like The Seasons and the 3 mega-moderates in the Nears need not apply here.
Looking for either 4th class or 5.easy "approach" climb to set up the TR, since this would be for TR-solo action.

It seems most of the better known TR routes are primarily face climbs. Not that there's anything wrong with that.
Got any suggestions for TR's meeting the above characteristics that have nice roofs to pull? (I can always use the practice)
D of G is one I've done that was fun.

Lastly, since I'm looking for something to practice climbing (I hope) on, not rope ascending, please refrain from telling me about some great 5.12 TR.
Anything harder than 10+ or mebbe 11- is way way outta my league.

Thx!


Edited by MurphysLaw (04/21/04 07:59 PM)
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#11592 - 04/21/04 05:36 PM Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes? [Re: MurphysLaw]
tico Offline
addict

Registered: 12/12/00
Posts: 416
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Stirrup trouble, low exposure, both red cabbages, coronary (face right of apoplexy), jacob's ladder, i bet pink laurel might go. if you're willing to solo up to 5.4 or so there's a lot more options.

or you could boulder, and get a lot more climbing in per time unti.

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#11593 - 04/21/04 06:24 PM Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes? [Re: tico]
MurphysLaw Offline
gumby

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
Thanks Tico.

Yeah, I may break down and actually do some pebble-wrestling this summer too.

Of course, that necessitates the need to buy the bouldering guidebook, and then find some V0 - V2 problems that one can do sans spotter and pad.

if you're willing to solo up to 5.4 or so there's a lot more options.

I am (depends a LOT on the particular route however), and occasionally do.
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#11594 - 04/21/04 06:34 PM Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes? [Re: MurphysLaw]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2954
Loc: LI, NY
crash pads are not that expensive.
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#11595 - 04/21/04 06:50 PM Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes? [Re: empicard]
GeeVee Offline
Auto Reply

Registered: 11/14/00
Posts: 4403
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
crash pads are not that expensive

d-elvis probably has a few stashed away somewhere, still with the tags on. I'm sure you could make him an offer next time he has a moving sale.
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#11596 - 04/21/04 07:45 PM Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes? [Re: MurphysLaw]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
How about this:
Solo "Un-named".

That gets you up above Dis Mantel which is a 10 or is it Dat mantel which is the 10? I forget, but, there's an overhang there. You also get to drop a rope on Wild Horses which is a poorly protected 9 that you may choose not to lead.

Solor first pitch of Beginner's Delight and with trickery involving the snooky's bolts, you might be able to get a rope above Friends and Lovers which, due to its poor protection might also be a 9 you might not wish to lead, but, it's a face climb, not an overhang and getting the rope on F&L while alone is possible but might be uncomfortable.

Then, you can go to the start of Casa Emilio and on the face underneath that is a 9 and a 10. The 10 is creaky joints or something like that....

PS- You can go back and do the delusions of grandeur roof without the benefit of tension and the benefit of a rope OVER your head.....

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#11597 - 04/21/04 07:49 PM Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes? [Re: GeeVee]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
How about the Voids out in the Nears. I may recall being able to scramble around the left side of the block to set up a tr for them. One is 11a and one is 11d. Also, going bouldering does not mean you HAVE to buy a guidebook. Go up to the cliff, pick an arbitrary spot and start traversing, staying as low to the ground as you can without actually stepping on the ground. There are some great sections where you can go for a long way with V0-V2ish moves thrown in once in a while. That is a great way to get a pump.

RR

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#11598 - 04/21/04 10:23 PM Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes? [Re: strat]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

Solo "Un-named".
You also get to drop a rope on Wild Horses which is a poorly protected 9 that you may choose not to lead.




Which also means that you've crossed above Stop the Presses, Osteopath, and Raunchy. You could also go a little further to set a directional above Gory Thumb. Of those, Stop the Presses and Gory Thumb are routes that some would rather not lead. You may want to be roped when setting the directionals/anchors above WH and GT.
Quote:


Solor first pitch of Beginner's Delight and with trickery, you might be able to get a rope above Friends and Lovers which, due to its poor protection might also be a 9 you might not wish to lead, but, it's a face climb, not an overhang and getting the rope on F&L while alone is possible but might be uncomfortable.



It's much easier to do this from Minty than Beginner's since with the latter it's a much longer traverse and you'd be crossing above Snooky's. Either way you'd want to be roped when getting to the F&L anchors.

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#11599 - 04/22/04 02:13 AM Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes? [Re: MarcC]
paborden Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/18/03
Posts: 366
Loc: On the road...
I'd head over to Lost City if I were looking for .10s and .11s to solo TR. They're a couple over there with easy approaches -- though I'm the last person to ask for beta in that regard...

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#11600 - 04/22/04 04:07 AM Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes? [Re: paborden]
jason1 Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/25/00
Posts: 841
Loc: moab
lost where?

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