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#11601 - 04/22/04 01:12 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: MurphysLaw]
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Pooh-Bah *
Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
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murph:
I saw a cat soloing TR just about everything on the Mac wall right of Three Pines. He'd solo up Three Pines, walk along the GT ledge, and set up multiple climbs. Of course, you gotta do it mid-week.
Also, not sure where you live, but Ragged Mtn is very TR solo friendly, with lots of hard, thin face climbs.
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#11602 - 04/22/04 03:08 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: strat]
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old hand
Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1012
Loc: Newtown, CT
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Quote:
Solor first pitch of Beginner's Delight and with trickery involving the snooky's bolts, you might be able to get a rope above Friends and Lovers which, due to its poor protection might also be a 9 you might not wish to lead, but, it's a face climb, not an overhang and getting the rope on F&L while alone is possible but might be uncomfortable.Quote:
Friends and Lovers has great gear. Every piece on that cliimb is bomber. It may be a bit run out for the climber looking for nothing but G, but there is plenty of gear and every piece is as good as it gets.
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#11603 - 04/22/04 03:19 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: Coppertone]
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addict
Registered: 12/12/00
Posts: 416
Loc: Gardiner, NY
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Quote:
Friends and Lovers has great gear. Every piece on that cliimb is bomber. It may be a bit run out for the climber looking for nothing but G, but there is plenty of gear and every piece is as good as it gets.
the only problem being that during the crux, that bomber gear is well below your feet.
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#11604 - 04/22/04 03:29 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: Coppertone]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4237
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Quote:
Quote:
Solor first pitch of Beginner's Delight and with trickery involving the snooky's bolts, you might be able to get a rope above Friends and Lovers which, due to its poor protection might also be a 9 you might not wish to lead, but, it's a face climb, not an overhang and getting the rope on F&L while alone is possible but might be uncomfortable.Quote:
Friends and Lovers has great gear. Every piece on that cliimb is bomber. It may be a bit run out for the climber looking for nothing but G, but there is plenty of gear and every piece is as good as it gets.
I knew it was only a matter of time before someone pointed out how leadable F&L is.  My bad, I sometimes equate poor gear with run-out. My bad for not being more clear.
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#11605 - 04/22/04 03:36 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: tico]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2320
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
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Quote:
the only problem being that during the crux, that bomber gear is well below your feet.
If you are using double ropes, you can place a small soldered-wire nut at head level. I believe the nut would hold the fall you'd take if you blew the crux, providing overhead protection, but I haven't performed that particular test. Do not, I repeat, do not use this placement if you only have one rope!
If you have Trango ball nutz, you can place a very shallow one at about knee level for the crux. This is not overhead, so is ok to use with a single rope. Whether it will actually hold is again something I haven't personally tested, but it won't hurt...
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#11606 - 04/22/04 03:44 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: rg@ofmc]
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Site Supporter
Registered: 12/06/01
Posts: 1658
Loc: Danbury CT
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Might just allow Murph to fix one of the BallNutz I just lent him!!!!!
What the hell, my climbing career is over if you listen to the wiseasses here!!!!!!
9 days to go!!!!!!
Irish
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#11607 - 04/22/04 04:07 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: irisharehere]
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gumby
Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
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Since this thread has already drifted a bit from the original query (yeah, like *that* hasn't happened before),
C-tone, Tico and RG have got me thinking about F&L now.
As far as the crux gear (RG's possible options excepted) being below yer feet, how far?
Are we talking similar to the crux of Three Doves, where ya get that last nice horizontal, then ya gotta move up to the pin, and then up above it again to the roof?
Or more run-out like some of p1 of Annie Oh?
(which is not such a biggie since it's easier climbing, for the most part)
Where ya typically go a ways between placements, and you *only* get one good piece each time.
edited to add: and what the hell? it's not like I'd be fixing MY Ballnut on it 
Edited by MurphysLaw (04/22/04 04:12 PM)
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