5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?

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#11611 - 04/22/04 05:58 PM Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes? [Re: MarcC]
tico addict Registered: 12/12/00 Posts: 416 Loc: Gardiner, NY	Quote: Quote: ... have got me thinking about F&L now. As far as the crux gear (RG's possible options excepted) being below yer feet, how far? Going on memory from a number of years ago for this but IIRC...... when you're faced with that bear-hug move, your last good pro is in the major horizontal that's a bit below the last good footholds below the crux friction smear. That would put it maybe 5 feet below your shoes? I dunno, but I do remember thinking it'd be really cool to be able to clip a bolt at my shoulder. that's exactly the situation. you could dink in something a little above your head, but if you blow the clip you'll deck from pretty high up. hence rg's half-rope recommendation. that pitch is way spicy.
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#11612 - 04/22/04 06:10 PM Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes? [Re: tico]
MurphysLaw gumby Registered: 03/12/02 Posts: 2308 Loc: Hudson Valley, NY	if you blow the clip you'll deck from pretty high up. hence rg's half-rope recommendation. that pitch is way spicy. ....which brings us around full-circle, (and back on topic - what're the chances? ) since now it's sounding a whole lot more like a TR-solo friendly route again. Thanks all for all the beta. _________________________ "Flailing?" "Flail on!"
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