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#11591 - 04/21/04 05:05 PM
5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
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gumby
Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
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I'm looking fer some suggestions (yes, I'm fully aware of and have already printed the TR suggestions section in the Routes area) for things that are fun, easy to set up TR-solo routes - BUT - are not ones that somebody would likely say afterwards "I wish I'd saved that one to lead".
Examples of what I'm looking for are things like: Squiggles Direct, Phoebe, Charie, Delusions of Grandeur, etc.
edited to add - if it's R or X rated, I'll never wanna lead it
Examples of routes I'd like to "save" to give a solid crack at leading (someday) first are:
Retribution/Nosedive, Apoplexy, P38, etc.
Classic lead/TR combos like The Seasons and the 3 mega-moderates in the Nears need not apply here.
Looking for either 4th class or 5.easy "approach" climb to set up the TR, since this would be for TR-solo action.
It seems most of the better known TR routes are primarily face climbs. Not that there's anything wrong with that.
Got any suggestions for TR's meeting the above characteristics that have nice roofs to pull? (I can always use the practice)
D of G is one I've done that was fun.
Lastly, since I'm looking for something to practice climbing (I hope) on, not rope ascending, please refrain from telling me about some great 5.12 TR. 
Anything harder than 10+ or mebbe 11- is way way outta my league.
Thx! 
Edited by MurphysLaw (04/21/04 07:59 PM)
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"Flailing?" "Flail on!"
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#11592 - 04/21/04 05:36 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: MurphysLaw]
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addict
Registered: 12/12/00
Posts: 416
Loc: Gardiner, NY
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Stirrup trouble, low exposure, both red cabbages, coronary (face right of apoplexy), jacob's ladder, i bet pink laurel might go. if you're willing to solo up to 5.4 or so there's a lot more options.
or you could boulder, and get a lot more climbing in per time unti.
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#11593 - 04/21/04 06:24 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: tico]
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gumby
Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
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Thanks Tico.
Yeah, I may break down and actually do some pebble-wrestling this summer too.
Of course, that necessitates the need to buy the bouldering guidebook, and then find some V0 - V2 problems that one can do sans spotter and pad.
if you're willing to solo up to 5.4 or so there's a lot more options.
I am (depends a LOT on the particular route however), and occasionally do.
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"Flailing?" "Flail on!"
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#11594 - 04/21/04 06:34 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: MurphysLaw]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2934
Loc: LI, NY
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crash pads are not that expensive.
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tOOthless
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
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#11596 - 04/21/04 07:45 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: MurphysLaw]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4236
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How about this:
Solo "Un-named".
That gets you up above Dis Mantel which is a 10 or is it Dat mantel which is the 10? I forget, but, there's an overhang there. You also get to drop a rope on Wild Horses which is a poorly protected 9 that you may choose not to lead.
Solor first pitch of Beginner's Delight and with trickery involving the snooky's bolts, you might be able to get a rope above Friends and Lovers which, due to its poor protection might also be a 9 you might not wish to lead, but, it's a face climb, not an overhang and getting the rope on F&L while alone is possible but might be uncomfortable.
Then, you can go to the start of Casa Emilio and on the face underneath that is a 9 and a 10. The 10 is creaky joints or something like that....
PS- You can go back and do the delusions of grandeur roof without the benefit of tension and the benefit of a rope OVER your head.....
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#11598 - 04/21/04 10:23 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: strat]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
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Quote:
Solo "Un-named".
You also get to drop a rope on Wild Horses which is a poorly protected 9 that you may choose not to lead.
Which also means that you've crossed above Stop the Presses, Osteopath, and Raunchy. You could also go a little further to set a directional above Gory Thumb. Of those, Stop the Presses and Gory Thumb are routes that some would rather not lead. You may want to be roped when setting the directionals/anchors above WH and GT.
Quote:
Solor first pitch of Beginner's Delight and with trickery, you might be able to get a rope above Friends and Lovers which, due to its poor protection might also be a 9 you might not wish to lead, but, it's a face climb, not an overhang and getting the rope on F&L while alone is possible but might be uncomfortable.
It's much easier to do this from Minty than Beginner's since with the latter it's a much longer traverse and you'd be crossing above Snooky's. Either way you'd want to be roped when getting to the F&L anchors.
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- Marc
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#11599 - 04/22/04 02:13 AM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: MarcC]
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enthusiast
Registered: 07/18/03
Posts: 360
Loc: On the road...
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I'd head over to Lost City if I were looking for .10s and .11s to solo TR. They're a couple over there with easy approaches -- though I'm the last person to ask for beta in that regard...
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#11600 - 04/22/04 04:07 AM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: paborden]
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old hand
Registered: 07/25/00
Posts: 837
Loc: moab
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#11601 - 04/22/04 01:12 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: MurphysLaw]
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Pooh-Bah *
Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
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murph:
I saw a cat soloing TR just about everything on the Mac wall right of Three Pines. He'd solo up Three Pines, walk along the GT ledge, and set up multiple climbs. Of course, you gotta do it mid-week.
Also, not sure where you live, but Ragged Mtn is very TR solo friendly, with lots of hard, thin face climbs.
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we're all living proof that nothing lasts
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#11602 - 04/22/04 03:08 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: strat]
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old hand
Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 999
Loc: Newtown, CT
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Quote:
Solor first pitch of Beginner's Delight and with trickery involving the snooky's bolts, you might be able to get a rope above Friends and Lovers which, due to its poor protection might also be a 9 you might not wish to lead, but, it's a face climb, not an overhang and getting the rope on F&L while alone is possible but might be uncomfortable.Quote:
Friends and Lovers has great gear. Every piece on that cliimb is bomber. It may be a bit run out for the climber looking for nothing but G, but there is plenty of gear and every piece is as good as it gets.
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#11603 - 04/22/04 03:19 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: Coppertone]
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addict
Registered: 12/12/00
Posts: 416
Loc: Gardiner, NY
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Quote:
Friends and Lovers has great gear. Every piece on that cliimb is bomber. It may be a bit run out for the climber looking for nothing but G, but there is plenty of gear and every piece is as good as it gets.
the only problem being that during the crux, that bomber gear is well below your feet.
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#11604 - 04/22/04 03:29 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: Coppertone]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4236
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Quote:
Quote:
Solor first pitch of Beginner's Delight and with trickery involving the snooky's bolts, you might be able to get a rope above Friends and Lovers which, due to its poor protection might also be a 9 you might not wish to lead, but, it's a face climb, not an overhang and getting the rope on F&L while alone is possible but might be uncomfortable.Quote:
Friends and Lovers has great gear. Every piece on that cliimb is bomber. It may be a bit run out for the climber looking for nothing but G, but there is plenty of gear and every piece is as good as it gets.
I knew it was only a matter of time before someone pointed out how leadable F&L is. My bad, I sometimes equate poor gear with run-out. My bad for not being more clear.
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#11605 - 04/22/04 03:36 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: tico]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2277
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
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Quote:
the only problem being that during the crux, that bomber gear is well below your feet.
If you are using double ropes, you can place a small soldered-wire nut at head level. I believe the nut would hold the fall you'd take if you blew the crux, providing overhead protection, but I haven't performed that particular test. Do not, I repeat, do not use this placement if you only have one rope!
If you have Trango ball nutz, you can place a very shallow one at about knee level for the crux. This is not overhead, so is ok to use with a single rope. Whether it will actually hold is again something I haven't personally tested, but it won't hurt...
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#11606 - 04/22/04 03:44 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: rg@ofmc]
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Site Supporter
Registered: 12/06/01
Posts: 1658
Loc: Danbury CT
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Might just allow Murph to fix one of the BallNutz I just lent him!!!!!
What the hell, my climbing career is over if you listen to the wiseasses here!!!!!!
9 days to go!!!!!!
Irish
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#11607 - 04/22/04 04:07 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: irisharehere]
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gumby
Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
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Since this thread has already drifted a bit from the original query (yeah, like *that* hasn't happened before),
C-tone, Tico and RG have got me thinking about F&L now.
As far as the crux gear (RG's possible options excepted) being below yer feet, how far?
Are we talking similar to the crux of Three Doves, where ya get that last nice horizontal, then ya gotta move up to the pin, and then up above it again to the roof?
Or more run-out like some of p1 of Annie Oh?
(which is not such a biggie since it's easier climbing, for the most part)
Where ya typically go a ways between placements, and you *only* get one good piece each time.
edited to add: and what the hell? it's not like I'd be fixing MY Ballnut on it 
Edited by MurphysLaw (04/22/04 04:12 PM)
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"Flailing?" "Flail on!"
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#11611 - 04/22/04 05:58 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: MarcC]
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addict
Registered: 12/12/00
Posts: 416
Loc: Gardiner, NY
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Quote:
Quote:
... have got me thinking about F&L now.
As far as the crux gear (RG's possible options excepted) being below yer feet, how far?
Going on memory from a number of years ago for this but IIRC......
when you're faced with that bear-hug move, your last good pro is in the major horizontal that's a bit below the last good footholds below the crux friction smear. That would put it maybe 5 feet below your shoes? I dunno, but I do remember thinking it'd be really cool to be able to clip a bolt at my shoulder. 
that's exactly the situation. you could dink in something a little above your head, but if you blow the clip you'll deck from pretty high up. hence rg's half-rope recommendation. that pitch is way spicy.
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#11612 - 04/22/04 06:10 PM
Re: 5.9+ to 5.11- 'TR-solo friendly' routes?
[Re: tico]
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gumby
Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 2308
Loc: Hudson Valley, NY
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if you blow the clip you'll deck from pretty high up. hence rg's half-rope recommendation. that pitch is way spicy. ....which brings us around full-circle, (and back on topic - what're the chances?  ) since now it's sounding a whole lot more like a TR-solo friendly route again.   Thanks all for all the beta.
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"Flailing?" "Flail on!"
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