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#11730 - 04/27/04 02:04 PM Midnight Cowboy?
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Has anyone done this route? If so how is the gear, trying to check off some of the more obscure routes.

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#11731 - 04/27/04 02:25 PM Re: Midnight Cowboy? [Re: Coppertone]
browndog2 Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/24/01
Posts: 766
Loc: livin' on the edge
I'm a little nervous about slinging gear beta after all the fun we've had on Hyjecks, but hey, this is better than doing actual work. Sooo...
You can ease your mind for the low down crux by gettin in a #2 rp, kinda strong stance for placement, helps to be tall , screamer it, and have a trusty belayer who knows what a dynamic belay is all about. That and stack the rope under the landing zone (which is not bad). One or two more spicy thin delicate moves and you got real holds and real gear. Basically, bouldering with a rope. Haven't done the second pitch, which I hear is zippy as well.
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#11732 - 04/27/04 02:27 PM Re: Midnight Cowboy? [Re: Coppertone]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
It is more of a slide than drop off , just get a good spot.

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#11733 - 04/27/04 02:39 PM Re: Midnight Cowboy? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Anonymous
Unregistered


as i remember the rp really didn't matter when you pull the crux just nice to have. also i found a BD swedge to sit better than a rp. metolious astro nut might sit nice also. gaston

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#11734 - 04/27/04 03:55 PM Re: Midnight Cowboy?
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I did the FA back in the day (meaning, in this case, before nuts and crash pads). Bouldered the start (gets a bit high ballish, but eases off after a few moves), Second pitch had what I remember as a run-out 5.9 ish hard reach protected, in those days, by a pin that was neither as close nor as good as you'd like.

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#11735 - 04/27/04 07:25 PM Re: Midnight Cowboy? [Re: rg@ofmc]
TimTheClimber Offline
member

Registered: 10/31/03
Posts: 187
Loc: New Paltz
Quote:

I did the FA back in the day (meaning, in this case, before nuts and crash pads). ...




Before Nuts! Could you possibly mean cams?
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#11736 - 04/27/04 07:52 PM Re: Midnight Cowboy? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Quote:

It is more of a slide than drop off , just get a good spot.





Mike I'm sure thats a little poke at my Hyjeks comment, but a little slide is fine with me. I've heard Midnight Cowboy is a fun, but exciting(little scary) route. I'm looking foward to the slide.

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#11737 - 04/27/04 10:10 PM Re: Midnight Cowboy? [Re: TimTheClimber]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

Quote:

I did the FA back in the day (meaning, in this case, before nuts and crash pads). ...




Before Nuts! Could you possibly mean cams?



Check the date of the FA. For a big part of Gunks history, pitons were the *only* protection used. Look around - there's extensive piton damage on the popular routes.
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- Marc

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#11738 - 04/28/04 02:29 PM Re: Midnight Cowboy? [Re: Coppertone]
d-elvis Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/26/00
Posts: 3650
Loc: Central PA
RG - why was it named "Midnight Cowboy"?
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#11739 - 04/29/04 03:00 AM Re: Midnight Cowboy? [Re: d-elvis]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Quote:

Before Nuts! Could you possibly mean cams?




Oh yeah, way before nuts. I'm sorry to say I started climbing before chromemolly pitons---at least before they were generally available. My first rack was a handful of swiss soft iron pitons and about eight steel carabiners.

Quote:

why was it named "Midnight Cowboy"?




It was the name of a movie, and the Gunks has gone through multiple movie phases in climb naming. Williams has been particularly fond of movie names, and I think it was his idea. Sorry the answer isn't more exciting...

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