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#11998 - 05/28/04 04:11 PM Three Doves
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
I hear there's a runout section somewhere before the roof on P2. How hard is this, and what is the nature of the difficulty?

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#11999 - 05/28/04 05:52 PM Re: Three Doves [Re: pedestrian]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
if its the route i did, i always confuse it with annie oh..ML can confirm, its fairly runout once you get past the pin, i think i went too far left towards the small tree but you can probably sling it witha loong sling if you have a single.

i turned that move into something way harder than it shoulda been, but i do remember the puckerage to be quite high from being way up and left of the pin
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#12000 - 05/28/04 06:21 PM Re: Three Doves [Re: pedestrian]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
There is a small ledge with a pine tree on it about 30 feet off of the GT ledge. You can sling this tree there is also a good horizontal a few feet up that takes great gear. There is then a terrible horizonal about 2 feet above that which takes comic gear. You are doing the move to the pin with your feet about 3 or 4 feet over the good gear, you do not want to fall here. once you get the pin you can back it up with a small nut, you then have the crux standup at the pin followed by about 10 feet of runout face climbing to the overhang where you can get good gear. You can also get a good blue/green alien to your left just before the overhang. If you are a 5.8 leader this will be very exciting and a bit scarry if you are solid 5.9 it will be fun and no problem at all. Its a very good climb.

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#12001 - 06/02/04 03:02 AM Re: Three Doves [Re: Coppertone]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
I've taken that fall (not on the onsight, which I got, but the next time leading it) and it's not so bad.

Has anyone here done that straight-up finish? I'd love to avoid the traverse the next time I do the route.


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#12002 - 06/07/04 11:04 PM Re: Three Doves [Re: Steven Cherry]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
Are you talking about moving slightly left through the hand/fists through a roof or strait through the roof directly above the pin?

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#12003 - 06/08/04 03:18 AM Re: Three Doves [Re: BobbyS]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
The crack/weakness in the roof.

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#12004 - 06/08/04 01:08 PM Re: Three Doves [Re: Steven Cherry]
Timbo Online   content
addict

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 694
Loc: Delaware
If you're talking about the obvious cleft just to the left of Three Doves (Hawkeye), yes I've done it (following). It was awhile ago (1998) so my memory may be fuzzy.....

I remember it being significantly reachy for someone my height (5'7") and definitely a bit harder than the 5.9+ grade Swain gives it. It was also lichen encrusted. I would not do it again. Since I did not lead it, can't comment on gear.

TS


Edited by Timbo (06/08/04 02:20 PM)
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#12005 - 06/08/04 01:46 PM Re: Three Doves [Re: Timbo]
lillajag Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/08/01
Posts: 36
Quote:

If you're talking about the obvious cleft just to the left of Three Doves (Hawkeye), ...

...It was also lichen encrusted. Since I did not lead it, can't comment on gear.

TS





I would say this is a nice ending on Three Doves. As a route by itself, it has a really
exciting/thin (MUCH worse than TD) runout section before you're at the roof.
The roof has excellent gear though, so if you come in from TD, you'll be fine.
I did it last year, without remembering much lichen.

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#12006 - 06/08/04 06:23 PM Re: Three Doves [Re: lillajag]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
I would think you could also come in from Red Pillar without any problems.

Where is the runnout that you are talking about lillajag. I am guessing it would be if you climbed strait up from the pine tree staying left of three doves and staying left of the crux three doves pin.

I climbed through the crux on three doves towards the roof and then moved left. Once you get to the roof you can get gear in although it would help to keep moving to the left before putting a piece in to keep rope drag down (so the runnout could be a lot but it this bit is not hard).. The roof is G, there is a hand/fist crack through it so you want a piece in that size range. There is also gear under the roof, smaller cams I think.

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#12007 - 06/09/04 02:51 PM Re: Three Doves [Re: BobbyS]
lillajag Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/08/01
Posts: 36
Quote:

I would think you could also come in from Red Pillar without any problems.

Where is the runnout that you are talking about lillajag. I am guessing it would be if you climbed strait up from the pine tree staying left of three doves and staying left of the crux three doves pin.

I climbed through the crux on three doves towards the roof and then moved left. Once you get to the roof you can get gear in although it would help to keep moving to the left before putting a piece in to keep rope drag down (so the runnout could be a lot but it this bit is not hard).. The roof is G, there is a hand/fist crack through it so you want a piece in that size range. There is also gear under the roof, smaller cams I think.




Yes, Red Pillar is an option (that I did after backing off the thin face). However, you have to be real careful with your rope in this case. If you place any gear in the Red Pillar corner, your rope is likely to get stuck in the crack once you pull the roof (since now the rope comes up from the left instead of coming up from right doing TD). That makes the face above the roof feel like 5.10+ish .
Yes, the runout is the face to the left of TD. If you stay constantly 4-8 feet left of TD, you get some half manky gear in a small flaring crack at a level a few feet below the TD pin. Then there is nothing 'til the roof. If this half manky gear fails at a fall, you will deck onto the ledge (far!) below. I find climbs such as Proctoscope (9+PG), Turdland (9+PG), Good Friday (9PG) and I'm OK (9PG-R) much easier to protect.

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